Providing Quality Fruit Flies Since 2004

Introduction

Since 2004, Josh’s Frogs has produced our own fruit fly media and cultures. Demand for both products continue to grow, and we thought we’d share what goes in to providing thousands of high quality fruit fly cultures to the pet trade.

Media

Let’s start by discussing Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly Media. We are the only company to offer specific medias for the two most popular species of fruit flies – Drosophila melanogaster and D. hydei. Both will do well on either media, but will truly thrive on their specific media. Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly media is enriched with vitamins, minerals, and other ingredients to insure the best nutrition possible. Methyl paraben, a food grade ingredient, is used to prevent mold growth. Our media is easy to use, inexpensive, and is known for it’s ability to produce thousands of flies. Demand continues to grow – in 2011, we sold over 11 tons of Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly media, all produced right here in Owosso, Michigan. By buying ingredients in quantities larger than the average consumer (we buy potato flake by the ton), we’re able to provide a top quality product cheaper than you’d be able to if you made it yourself!

We made and sold over 12 tons of fruit fly media last year!

Making the Fruit Fly Cultures

Every week, staff at Josh’s Frogs makes over 1000 fruit fly cultures. This may seem a daunting process, but it can easily be broken down into several basic steps.

Step 1: Bring water to a boil – we boil filtered water 16 gallons at a time using 4 large coffee urns.

Step 2: Place ½ cup of Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly Media in a 32oz insect cup.

Step 3: Add 2/3 cup boiling water. We do not mix the water and media – the fruit fly larvae will do that for us!

Step 4: Add excelsior – this provides surface area for the flies to crawl and lay their eggs on. It also keeps the culture intact during shipping.

Step 5: Allow media to cool. We cover the cultures at this point to prevent contamination from flying flies.

Step 6: Add 50-100 fruit flies.

Step 7: Cover culture with a vented insect cup lid.

Caring for Cultures

After the cultures are made, they are incubated in a special ‘bug room’, which is maintained at 78F and a humidity of 70% – optimum conditions for fruit flies. We store the cultures in plastic storage drawers – each drawer holds a dozen cultures, making it easier to transport them around the facility, as well as maintaining the proper humidity in the culture. Paper towels, innoculated with mite spray, are placed in the bottom of each drawer. Between batches, all of the storage drawers are sterilized with bleach.

All of our cultures are incubated at 78F in our bug room.

Every storage drawer is sterilized between each batch of flies.

Conclusion

Josh’s Frogs is the leading producer of 32oz Fruit Fly cultures in the world – we shipped out over 30,000 cultures last year! We strive to provide the pet industry with quality cultures – hopefully, this blog post illustrates the challenges of being the industry leader, and shows how we meet and exceed those challenges.

A Comparison of Drosophila melanogaster and D. hydei

Introduction

Fruit flies (Drosophila sp.) are a common feeder insect when animals that require small prey items are involved, such as dart frogs. Although several different species have made the rounds in the hobby, 2 have consistently been cultured over the years, and remain the most common and easy to work with.

Fruit flies are easy to culture, making them one of the most popular feeder insects for animals requiring small prey items.

Drosophila melanogaster

Drosophila melanogaster (also know as melanogaster, melanos, or mels) are probably the most commonly encountered species of fruit fly in culture, and measure about 1/16^th of an inch long, making them ideal as the staple food for a variety of dart frogs and other animals that prefer smaller prey items. Melanogaster fruit flies have been used to years in genetics experiments around the world, and as such, there are several different genetic mutations of them available. Perhaps the most useful to the average hobbyist is the ‘wingless’ form. These flies lack wings, and as such are unable to fly. Unlike the ‘flightless’ D. melanogaster, the wingless form cannot regain the ability to fly if it gets too warm (the ‘flightless’ deformation is linked to protein folding – if the flies reach a certain temperature, the proteins fold properly and the next generation will be able to fly). The ‘wingless’ trait is recessive – both parents have to carry the trait in order for the offspring to remain wingless. If a ‘wild type’ fly (one with wings) mates with a ‘wingless’ fly, the offspring will be able to fly.

Drosophila melanogaster are a smaller fruit fly, measuring about 1/16” long.

The life cycle of Drosophila melanogaster is very quick. Within 14 days of setting up a new culture, the next generation of flies is emerging. After that 14 day waiting period, new flies emerge every day. This quick generation time means that the culture will produce thousands of flies, fairly consistently, from day 14-28, when the culture is disposed of. Because of this, melanogaster fruit flies are generally preferred by those who are new to culturing fruit flies – melanogaster tend to be more forgiving and easier to culture consistently.

Melanogaster fruit fly cultures will produce thousands of flies over a 28 day period.

Drosophila hydei

Drosophila hydei (also known simply as hydei) are another commonly encountered fruit fly in the hobby. Hydei measure about 1/8”, and are quite a bit larger and ‘meatier’ than D. melanogaster – perfectly suited for dart frogs that prefer larger prey items, or other pets with similar needs. A ‘flightless’ form of hydei is most commonly available – this strain will not revert back to fliers at a higher temperature, unlike ‘flightless’ melanogaster. Like the ‘wingless’ form of melanogaster, this trait is recessive, requiring both parents to carry the trait in order for the offspring to be flightless. Every care should be taken to insure that flying Drosophila hydei do not get into the culture, as the resulting flying insects can quickly become a nuisance.

Drosophila hydei are a larger fruit fly, measuring about 1/8” long.

Compared to that of D. melanogaster, the life cycle of D. hydei is much longer. At average temperatures, it will take 21 days or more until the first new hydei being emerging in a culture. Hydei fruit fly cultures show a particular ‘boom and bust’ cycle – the culture will appear empty, only to suddenly be filled with flies overnight. Most cultures will have 2-3 booms, with 5-7 days between each one. With the large period of time between active booms, hydei cultures are much more likely to dry out than melanogaster, and as such are more prone to crashes and grain mite infestations.

Drosophila hydei fruit fly cultures are more prone to drying out and crashing, due to their ‘boom and bust’ life cycle.

Conclusion

Both species of fruit flies popular in culture are relatively easy to culture. Generally speaking, Drosophila melanogaster – the smaller fruit fly – is easier to culture for novices, and is perfectly suited for most species of dart frogs. Drosophila hydei – the larger fruit fly – will produce more ‘meat’ over the life of the culture, but is more suceptible to crashes.

Next week, we’ll take a look at what goes in to producing all of the fruit fly cultures at Josh’s Frogs.

What should I put in my terrarium? We’ve heard this question thousands of times, so perhaps this document might be useful to you. To select the proper plants, you need to ask yourself a few questions first.

First, what climate are you trying to imitate? More importantly, if you are going to put animals in your terrarium, what conditions do those animals require? Most people think of a terrarium as a jungle environment, always warm, wet and humid. This is one of the easiest climates to replicate. Most of the commonly available dart frogs would do well in this environment. If you are raising reptiles, you may want an environment that is more arid, with little humidity. Other animals may require seasonal temperature variation or changes in moisture levels at different seasons. These factors should guide your plant selection.

Second, how much light do you have? In general, terrariums should be lit with artificial sources of light. A sealed terrarium can easily cook in direct sunlight. If you use artificial light, you can control the duration and intensity of the light. Choosing the perfect light is the subject of a future document, it can be a complicated subject. If you already have a light you are going to use, install it in its final location above the terrarium and turn it on. Place your hand at different levels in the terrarium and look at the shadow you cast. A sharp edged shadow means the location is receiving ‘bright’ light. A soft edged shadow will indicate ‘medium’ light, a fuzzy shadow is low light. If you don’t see much of a shadow, it is going to be very difficult to find a plant for that spot. You can always add larger lights or more lights, but for planning purposes remember that a plant placed high in the terrarium is going to provide shade to plants below it.

Third, just how much variety to you really need? Some people are happy with just a few plant types or even just one rambling specimen that covers ground rapidly. Some people want dozens of different plants. Themes are popular, such as all bromeliads or all orchids. It is up to you. If you are just starting, a good mix for a dart frog terrarium can be found with our basic terrarium package. We suggest a few small to medium sized bromeliads (bromeliads hold water and provide hiding spots for frogs), some vining plants that can drape down your background, a couple of ferns, and some assorted tropical plants.

Be aware that highly toxic pesticides are often used in large scale foliage plant production. When you purchase plants, purchase them from a reputable supplier that uses animal safe techniques. If you do buy plants you aren’t sure of, consider growing them outside of your frog tanks for a few weeks or a month. This is plenty of time for pesticide levels to decrease to safe levels. Some people worry about fertilizer as well. It is virtually impossible to grow plants without at least some added fertilizer (plants need food to grow!). A little fertilizer will not hurt, but a good practice is to soak new plants in clean water for a few hours and rinse off extra soil or potting mix.

Plant selection:

For purposes of this discussion, I’ll assume we are building a terrarium to house dart frogs. That means high humidity and even moisture and temperature. There are many plants that will do well in this environment. Here are some sure winners:

1. Pothos. This is an impossible plant to kill, it will grow from even the smallest cutting and rapidly fill a tank. It is a good choice for tree frogs. If you want to grow a wide variety of plants, you may wish to avoid pothos, as it grows so rapidly it can easily crowd out a terrarium. Be prepared to prune it aggressively. There are several different color varieties of pothos to choose from, including green, gold, and variegated forms. Will grow at almost any light level.

2. Wandering Jew (tradescantia) – there are dozens of easily available varieties and probably hundreds of total varieties. This is also a very easy plant, and can be very aggressive. Some varieties include ‘Red’, ‘Burgundy’ (which has red underneath and green on top), and ‘Bolivian’ with its small leaves and rampant growth habit. You can easily find varieties in many different colors. Medium to low light. Be prepared to trim wandering jews frequently.

3. Peperomia species. There are countless species in this genus, and most will be great in a terrarium. They range from tiny leaves (‘Little Red Tree’) to large leaves (Pep. glabella), compact forms or vining. A very versatile genus, you could easily fill a terrarium with just different forms of peperomia. These usually grow in low light, but you will get more compact growth with medium light.

4. Pilea species. Like peperomia, hundreds of different species and varieties to choose from. They are easy growers and easy to propagate by cuttings. Small leaf vining forms include ‘Red Stem Tears’, ‘Baby Tears’, and ‘Tiny Tears’. ‘Creeping Charlie’ is a larger leaf vining form, which can easily fill a tank. Choose ‘Moon Valley’ (green) or ‘Friendship’ (purple) if you want a short bush. If your plant gets too out of control, simply clip it back to size.

5. Bromeliads. In the wild, many species of bromeliads form ‘ponds’ high up in the tree canopy. Frogs can use these water sources to rear tadpoles, and other animals and insects use them as well. With these ponds high in the trees, many animals never come down to the ground! The most common genus of bromeliad used in terraria is Neoregelia. They flower, but the flowers are usually held well within the ‘cup’, you might never see them. Bromeliads are true epiphytes (air plants) and will grow just fine stuck into the background or on a stick. They are very adaptable, and you can also plant them in soil or moss at the base of your tank. Try to place them such that they are not sitting in water, and they will do well. Be sure to select varieties of Neoregelia that stay compact. I particularly like ‘Fireball’, ‘Zoe’, or ‘Donger’, all of which are inexpensive and widely available, although any small growing neoregelia will do. For a little extra interest, try another genus of bromeliad like Billbergia with its deep, tubular water holding cups. I avoid most tillandsias, if they have a powdery silver coating on the leaves they will not do well. If your bromeliads lose their bright colors, they are not receiving enough light. They grow OK in medium light, but the best color and form is found when you give them very bright light.

6. Orchids. Consider an orchid or two in your next terrarium. It is a special touch. As a rule, most orchids are epiphytes that do not like to have soggy wet roots. Mount them on the background or plant them in a place where they won’t stay constantly wet. Some orchids to consider are jewel orchids, like Ludisia discolor or Macodes petola, which have beautiful foliage and do well in fairly low light. Restrepias have boring leaves but can bloom almost non-stop in a terrarium, the flowers look like a cross between a boat and a bug. Many masdevallias are good to grow in terrariums. Small bulbophyllums are excellent terrarium plants. These are just a few suggestions. There are more than 25,000 species of orchids! A quick online search will give you some valuable information about species that you are unsure of. Avoid plants that get too large, have tall flower spikes, or require special conditions to bloom. An example of a plant to avoid is Catasetum. They require a long dry rest, which is not possible in most terrariums. If you aren’t sure, ask the grower.

It is impossible to list all of the plants that will do well in a tropical terrarium. Don’t hesitate to try species that you are unsure of.

An Overview of the Strata of Vivarium Substrates

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

The modern living vivarium can seem like a complicated endeavor to outsiders – the most puzzling part being what is traditionally not the focus: the lower strata. A variety of materials are used as substrate in order to provide a climate that promotes both the health of the plants and frogs. The use of such things as drainage layers and leaf litter may seem much more involved than they actually are – this blog post will provide a basic overview of the different substrate strata, explaining both how they are used, and why. We will start at the bottom, and halt before discussing plants and hardscape, which will be the topic of next week’s blog.

Hydroton

Hydroton is a brand of LECA, or Light Expanded Clay Aggregate. It has been kiln fired to increase durability. Hydroton is a very lightweight option for creating a false bottom, which serves to create a void for excess water to go (so it does not saturate the soil layer). It also wicks water slowly back into the substrate, allowing for a more humid environment. Additionally, Hydroton provides a large amount of surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow. These bacteria will work to metabolize wastes from the system, resulting in a cleaner environment.

Substrate Barrier

Simply put, the substrate barrier included in the kit is placed between the Hydroton and substrate layers in the vivarium to prevent the substrate from pushing down into the Hydroton. This keeps the substrate drier, improving growing conditions in the vivarium, as well as extending the life of the substrate. The substrate barrier can be cut or folded to fit in your specific enclosure.

Atlanta Botanical Garden (ABG) Mix

ABG mix is a premium substrate for tropical vivariums. A precise blend of tree fern fiber, charcoal, sphagnum peat, long fiber sphagnum, and fir bark, this substrate is capable of lasting several years when used properly. Originally perfected by the Atlanta Botanical Gardens of Atlanta, Georgia, this substrate will support a sizable population of microfauna while allowing plants to thrive. It is a good idea to wet the substrate before placing it in the vivarium.

Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss

Long Fiber Sphagnum moss lasts a long time in the vivarium, and has natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. It is placed between the substrate and leaf litter layers in a vivarium to prevent the substrate from adhering to the frogs, and to increase the suitable environment for microfauna. The Long Fiber Sphagnum moss comes in an compressed brick, and will need to be expanded in water previous to use.

Leaf Litter

Leaf litter is an integral part of a naturalistic vivaria. It slowly breaks down, providing both organic food for the microfauna and plants in the tank. Leaf litter also provides hiding places and visual barriers for the larger inhabitants of the vivarium. It is the final layer in the vivarium. Leaf litter may consist of Live Oak, Sea Grape, Magnolia, or a combination of the three, or any other non-toxic leaf that is chemical-free. Typically, southern or tropical varieties of leaves are used, as these tend to be thicker, and take longer to break down in the vivaria.

The Strata of Vivarium Substrates

The above mentioned substrates are simply layered in the vivarium at different depths, beginning with about 2” of hydroton, then the substrate barrier, then 2-3” of ABG mix, followed by an inch of long fiber sphagnum moss, and topped with a hearty layer of leaf litter. The illustration below provides a visual example of this concept.

The different strata of substrates in a naturalistic vivarium.

Water Flow in the Vivarium

Water is added to the vivarium typically via fogging or misting, or a combination of the two. It settles on the plants, hardscape, and in the leaf litter, before traveling through the soil, and finally settling in the false bottom, or hydroton. Hydroton slowly wicks water back into the ABG mix, keeping it moist, but not saturated. This provides a humid, damp substrate that many plants, frogs, and microfauna thrive in. Keeping about 1” of standing water in the bottom of the vivarium will help maintain humidity – just make sure that the water never directly touches the substrate barrier or ABG mix, as this will quickly result in a saturated, sopping wet mess that is unhealthy both for plants and animals. Anerobic bacteria can quickly take hold in these conditions, and threaten the well-being of the inhabitants, as well as producing unpleasant smells. If this ever happens, all of the substrate layers above the substrate barrier will need to be replaced immediately. For this reason, excess water must be removed from the vivarium – I create a small pond in the front corner of each vivarium, and remove excess water from that via a suction hose.

Water flow in a vivarium.

Conclusion

Vivariums can seem a complicated endeavor at first glance, but the steps to build a well-functioning environment, and the concepts behind it, are not nearly as mysterious as they first may seem. With a little bit of research and planning, and initial investment in the proper supplies, anyone is capable of creating their own little slice of jungle.

Next week, we will discuss the basic groups of vivarium plants, and how to utilize them in the vivarium.

Part II: Dendrobatid Froglet Care

Introduction

Dendrobatids, more commonly known as dart frogs, reproduce by laying eggs. These develop into a free-swimming larvae, before coming out of the water as miniature versions of the adults. In this installment, we’ll discuss how to morph out healthy froglets, and raise them for the first few months.

Metamorphing Larvae

When the tadpole show both it’s back legs (visible about a month before it emerges from the water) and it’s front legs (visible about a week before it emerges from the water), it’s time to switch it into a container that it can easily crawl out of the water and onto land. At JoshsFrogs, we simply turn the 32oz container we used to raise the tadpole at a 45 degree angle, drain out most of the water, and place a vented insect cup lid on top to prevent an unintentional escape.

Tilting the container 45 degrees provides a gentle slope for the froglet to emerge.

At this time, the froglet is absorbing it’s tail and using it as a food source – there is no need to feed. The future froglet will remain in the water for a time, and may emerge periodically, returning to the water when they are frightened. When the froglet is seen out of the water for the majority of the time, it is then removed to a rearing bin. It is not uncommon for part of the tail to remain at this point – the froglet will continue to absorb it, and will not take food for a few days after the tail is no longer visible.

When froglets first emerge from the water, it is not unusual for them to have some tail remaining.

Care of Froglets

After they have left the water, froglets are removed to rearing bins. We use 128oz 9.75” diameter plastic food storage containers to house froglets in pairs. Larger containers can be used, and froglets can be raised together in larger groups, but we find that pairs work best for us.

128oz plastic containers work great for rearing froglets.

We use a substrate of damp long fiber sphagnum moss, with a few dried leaves and a plant clipping. The sphagnum moss has natural antibacterial properties, and keeps the enclosure at a constant high humidity level. The plant clipping uses up nutrients (ie waste) as it grows, and the dried leaves provide hiding places for the young frogs. Springtails are added to the enclosure to help maintain a clean environment, as well as provide a constant food source for the young amphibians. We feed them 3 times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) with small fruit flies. The flies are dusted with a vitamin and mineral supplement (we alternate between Repashy Calcium Plus, RepCal Calcium with D3, and RepCal Herptivite) at every feeding.

Springtails and dusted Fruit Flies make up the bulk of a young froglet’s diet.

Make sure to provide a constant food source for the young and growing frogs. You want a small number of food items to be present at any given time, but you never want there to be such a large amount that it stresses out the frog. With proper care, this simple enclosure will provide the optimal environment for the new frogs to thrive for the first 2-4 months of their life out of the water. At this point, they are typically moved into large quarters or a vivarium.

After froglets are several months old, they care ready to be introduced into a vivarium.

Conclusion

Amphibian literally means two-sided life – the origin of this term is very apparent in the life cycle of the dart frog. Care of the metamorphing animals and subsequent froglets is by no means difficult, but is a vital part of ending up with healthy adult frogs.

Next week, we will look at how to assemble a basic dart frog vivarium.

Dendrobatid Egg and Tadpole Care

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Dendrobatids, more commonly known as dart frogs, reproduce by laying eggs. These develop into a free-swimming larvae, before coming out of the water as miniature versions of the adults. Care of the eggs and larvae are very different than caring for the frogs in their final form – this blog entry will help insure the young animals get the proper care they need.

Egg Care

Depending on the species of dart frogs, eggs may be deposited on leaves, in film canisters, on petri dishes under coco huts, or even on the glass wall of the vivarium itself. Egg clutches can vary greatly in size – some only lay 2-3 eggs at a time (Ranitomeya sp.), while some are capable of laying several dozen in one clutch (Phyllobates sp.).

Dart frogs will lay egg clutches consisting of 2 to several dozen eggs, depending on the species.

This is a clutch of Phyllobates vittatus eggs.

Once found, the eggs can be removed from the vivaria for artificial rearing. If they are attached to a leaf or laid on the glass, they can be removed with a variety of objects (I primarily use a large spoon or razor). If they are laid on a petri dish or in a film canister, the entire object can be removed from the vivarium. I use a Slurpee straw to remove eggs from the film canister and place them on a petri dish. The same is done with eggs laid on leaves or the glass.

Now that the eggs are on a petri dish, they need to be kept moist. I use reverse osmosis water with a bit of boiled peat added to it to mist the eggs, until there is a small pool of water just touching the eggs. The petri dish is placed in an 8oz container (or similar; I used to use Ziploc sandwich containers) that contains a small amount of water on the bottom (usually just enough to cover the bottom of the container). The container is labeled with the species and date laid, and kept at a temperature in the 70s F.

Keep eggs moist by placing them in a sealed container with water.

Observe the eggs as development progresses. Bad (unfertilized) eggs will generally turn white and mold over – these eggs should be carefully removed and discarded. Fertilized eggs will slowly develop a line across the sphere of the egg – this is the tadpole’s body forming. The tadpole will continue to grow as the sphere (yolk) shrinks in size, until a fully developed tadpole is visible in the egg.

From right to left, Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Cobalt’ egg at 1,4,10, and 15 days.

Tadpole Care

Depending on species, the eggs will hatch in approximately 14-21 days after they were laid, assuming they were fertilized. It can be difficult to see if a tadpole is out of the clear egg gel. The tadpole will assumed a curled position as it grows in the egg. Once it assumes a straightened position, it has hatched. Initially, the tadpole will remain stationary as it absorbs the remains of the yolk, and may not respond to stimuli.

Left: Unhatched egg, on the verge of hatching. Right: A newly hatched Dendrobatid tadpole.

Once the tadpole has absorbed it’s yolk (typically within 24-36 hours of hatching), it is carefully removed with a turkey baster and placed in a labeled 32oz plastic cup with approximately 8 oz of the same reverse osmosis/boiled peat mixture as used on the eggs. Additionally, a piece of Indian almond leaf and a bit of java moss are placed in the water. The Indian almond leaf releases tannins into the water, which function as a natural anti-fungal and anti-bacteria agent, as well as providing shelter for the tadpole, and an increased surface area to graze on. The java moss produces oxygen, and serves as a source of filtration and nitrogen uptake. The water is kept shallow initially to facilitate the tadpole’s ability to swim to the surface and gulp air.

Tadpoles are kept in 32oz cups. Make sure to label your tadpoles carefully if you are working with multiple species!

After a few days, the tadpole cup is topped off with reverse osmosis water, and is fed for the first time. There are a wide array of foods available for tadpoles – we feed primarily HBH Frog and Tadpole Bites, as well as Sera Micron, and have had much success with these products. When selecting a food, it is important to choose one that does not readily foul the water, and contains a significant percentage of protein and vital minerals and vitamins. The tadpoles are fed 1-2 bits of food 2-3 times a week, and kept at temperatures in the low to mid 70s F.

Over the next several weeks, the tadpole will continue to grow. As the water evaporates, it is topped off with reverse osmosis water. After approximately 6-8 weeks (this depends greatly on species and the temperature the tadpole is raised at, with high temperatures resulting in faster metamorphosis and smaller froglets), the tadpole will develop visible back legs. After another month, the front legs will become visible. The front legs actually develop at the same time as the back legs in frogs, but do not emerge until much later. Once all four legs are visible, it is time to prepare your tadpole for morphing.

Conclusion

Amphibian literally means two-sided life – the origin of this term is very apparent in the life cycle of the dart frog. Care of the eggs and aquatic larvae differ greatly from that of the adult animal, but is by no means difficult.

Next week, we will look at the care of morphing tadpoles and young froglets.

The In and Outs of Isopods

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

The term ‘microfauna’ literally translates to “small animals”, and refers to small arthropods, such as springtails and isopods (aka rollie-pollies, pill bugs, wood louse). These invertebrates serve several important functions in the home vivaria: they act as tank janitors, helping to break down dead plant matter and uneaten food. They also provide the vivarium inhabitants with an extra in-house snack, and aid in nutrient cycling. This week, we will focus on isopods, also known as rollie-pollies, potato bugs, pill bugs, and wood louse. Isopods inhabit most anywhere in the world, but for the purposes of the vivaria, mainly tropical species are used.

Types of Isopods

There are thousands of species of isopods, but we mainly work with 4 different species: dwarf whites, purple, dwarf gray striped, and giant orange.

From left to right: Dwarf Gray Stripe, Dwarf White, Purple, and Giant Orange isopods.

Dwarf White Isopods

These isopods are very small and softer bodied (less calcium?) than the other species we work with, making them an excellent prey animal. They also tend to reproduce fairly quickly, making them one of the easiest isopods to culture. These are considered to be the ‘original’ isopods in the trade, as they have been cultured the longest.

Purple Isopods

Purple isopods really are not all that purple – they are more of a light grayish- purple at the best. They are a smaller species, being just a little larger than the dwarf white isopods. These are fairly slow to culture, but do culture faster than the Giant Orange isopods.

Dwarf Gray Striped Isopods

Dwarf Gray Striped isopods culture faster than any other isopods we’ve worked with. Not only do they populate a culture quickly, but they also reproduce exponentially in the vivarium, often out-competing other varieties of isopods. These are probably the best isopods to culture as a food source.

Giant Orange Isopods

As the name suggest, Giant Orange isopods are large and bright orange. They are slow to culture, but reach a much larger adult size compared to most other isopods in captivity. These make great tank janitors, as adults are generally too large for most species of dart frogs to consume. They will eat waste, leaf litter, and uneaten food in the vivarium, while the frogs consume baby isopods.

Housing Isopods

We keep our isopods in plastic KIS shoe boxes. At one end, a soldering iron is used to melt 3 small holes in the upper portion of one small side, below the lid clasp. This will create a humidity gradient across the culture, and allow for a small bit of air flow.

Use a soldering iron to melt small holes in one side of the culture. This will increase the air flow to the culture, and allow one side of the culture to dry out. We feed on this side, as it reduces the amount of mold in the culture.

The shoebox is filled with 3” of ABG mix and ground leaf litter, at a proportion of approximately 3:1. The mix is wet beforehand, so that it is moist, but not dripping excess water. On top of the substrate, multiple layers of clean corrugated cardboard is placed. This allows the isopods extra shelter, as well as an additional food source. Most species seem to be more productive when kept in the mid to high 70s F, and slightly moist.

Side profile of a typical isopod culture.

Feeding Isopods

Isopods will feed upon a wide variety of foods. We primarily feed fresh fruit and veggie scraps – they seem particularly fond of zucchini. Occasionally, we offer high quality dog food kibble, mushroom, and dried fish food flakes. Be careful when offering grain-based foods – these can and will attract mites, which can reduce the productivity of the culture, if not cause it to crash outright.

Fish flake makes a good food for isopods.

Adding Isopods to the Vivarium

Isopods will spend the majority of their time burrowed in the substrate of their culture, making it difficult to add them to a vivarium. Fortunately, they have a habit of seeking shelter in the cardboard pieces provided in the culture. Simply pick up the cardboard and shake it over a container, expelling any resident isopods. These can then be added to the vivarium, or used to start an additional isopod culture.

Conclusion

Isopods, although not necessary to successfully keeping dart frogs, certainly make proper husbandry easier. They play an important function in the home vivaria – mainly as nutrient cyclers and an additional food source, and also function as an excellent secondary source of calcium. They are simple to keep and culture at home.

Next week, we will discuss the care of Dendrobatid eggs and tadpoles.

The In and Outs of Springtails

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

The term ‘microfauna’ literally translates to “small animals”, and refers to small arthropods, such as springtails and isopods (aka rollie-pollies, pill bugs, wood louse). These invertebrates serve several important functions in the home vivaria: they act as tank janitors, helping to break down dead plant matter and uneaten food. They also provide the vivarium inhabitants with an extra in-house snack, and aid in nutrient cycling. This week, we will focus on springtails, arthropods belonging to the group Collembola.

Housing Springtails

Springtails are most commonly housed in plastic shoebox-sized containers outside the vivarium, although they can be kept in a variety of containers. The key is to select a container that is not completely air tight, allowing the culture to ‘breathe’ slightly. I prefer the KIS brand plastic shoe boxes (~$2) available at K-mart.

Springtail cultures should contain 3-4” of charcoal, with about 1” of distilled, reverse osmosis, or dechlorinated water on the bottom.

There are many different options for springtail substrate, with charcoal or coconut fiber being the most common. I prefer small chunk charcoal, with pieces being approximately 1/2” long. The charcoal is washed to remove dust, then it is added to the container at a depth of 3-4”. Dechlorinated, reverse osmosis, or distilled water is added to a depth of 1”.

Feeding Springtails

As with bedding, opinions vary greatly concerning what to feed your springtails. At JoshsFrogs.com, we exclusively use uncooked white rice. Dart frog keepers have used mushroom (both fresh and dried), fish food, vegetable scraps, and dog food with success. I’ve found that grain-based foods (such as dog food, breads, and the like) tend to attract mites, which will overrun the culture and eventually cause it’s downfall.

Springtails will not directly eat the food you are feeding the culture, but will feast on the mold that grows on it.

Remember, the springtails will not be eating the actual food placed in the culture, but will feed mainly on the mold that grows on it. With uncooked white rice, the mold forms a low-growing mat that allows us to go several weeks between feedings.

Adding Springtails to the Vivarium

One of the benefits of using charcoal as a springtail culture substrate is the ease in removing springtails from the culture. Springtails tend to float, while saturated charcoal does not. Add additional distilled, dechlorinated, or reverse osmosis water to the springtail culture, and simply pour out the springtails directly into the vivarium. It’s that simple, and a lot less of a hassle than other methods.

Due to their small size, springtails do not break the surface tension of the water, and therefore float, making it easy to pour springtails out of a culture with a charcoal substrate.

Conclusion

Springtails (Collembola), although not necessary to successfully keeping dart frogs, certainly make proper husbandry easier. They play an important function in the home vivaria – mainly as nutrient cyclers and an additional food source. They are simple to keep and culture at home.

Next week, we will explore the culturing of isopods for vivarium use.

3 Great ‘Starter Frogs’ for Beginners

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Few things draw as much attention at pet stores or reptile shows as Poison Dart Frogs. They are colorful, active, and interesting captives, which are fairly easy to care for. Not all species are as forgiving as others, however. The following 3 species of PDFs are much more resistant to common mistakes made by new frog owners, and make a great first frog for those new to the dart frog hobby.

The Dyeing Poison Arrow Frog – Dendrobates tinctorius

Dendrobates tinctorius, or tincs as they are known in the hobby, are large, colorful frogs that occur over a wide area in the South American countries of Brazil, Guyana, French Guiana and Suriname, with most of the locales available in the hobby hailing from Suriname. Each population of Dendrobates tinctorius possesses unique colors and patterns – these different locales can vary widely in adult size and aggression as well.

Dendrobates tinctorius vary greatly as a species. Each color morph represents a unique population in the wild, and should not be mixed with other populations. From left to right, top to bottom: Oyapok, Brazilian Yellow Head, Citronella, Azureus, Matecho, Patricia, Suriname Cobaly, Giant Orange, Powder Blue, Regina, Lorenzo, Yellow Back.

Given this wide array of colors and patterns, it is tempting to mix and match several different morphs, to create a colorful group of animals in the vivarium. However, this is not a good choice – not only can these different populations of tincs crossbreed, they also tend to not get along with each other in the long run, leading to fighting and casualties. The different morphs of Dendrobates tinctorius are best left to their own individual vivariums.

Just because different populations of Dendrobates tinctorius should not be mixed does not mean that you cannot have a diverse group of frogs in the vivarium. Above are 6 sibling Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Yellowback’.

Adult tincs typically measure from 1.25-2.5” depending on morph and age. These frogs can get quite large, and are best kept with sturdy plants in the vivarium, such as pothos. They can trample small, delicate vivarium plants. Dendrobates tinctorius are primarily a ground-dwelling frog, and are better suited to large, horizontally oriented vivaria, where they will spend most of their time exploring the leaf litter hunting for microfauna. Their call Is a very faint buzz, which is nearly inaudible.

Tincs are fine raised in groups as froglets, but sometimes do need to be split up as they age. Dendrobates tinctorius is sexually mature at 10-14 months of age for most locales. They typically lay on smooth leaves or under coco huts. Adult females can fight with each other over access to a mate, so it is best to limit the group to one mature female. These bold and outgoing vivarium inhabitants can with well over two decades if cared for properly.

The Bumble Bee Poison Dart Frog – Dendrobates leucomelas

Dendrobates leucomelas, known as the Bumble Bee Poison Dart frog, or Leuc, in the trade, makes another great beginner frog. They are active, bold, and do great in groups – typically, the only problem you may run into will be females eating each others’ eggs. They display very contrasting yellow and black bands, and have a loud, pleasant call. They naturally occur in Venezuela, Guyana, Brazil, and eastern Colombia.

Dendrobates leucomelas ‘Fine Spot’. Leucs come in a variety of patterns, each probably representing a population or locale in the wild.

There are 2 predominate ‘morphs’ of Dendrobates leucomelas in the hobby – Standard Leucs (commonly just referred to as ‘Leucs’) and Banded Leucs. Standard leucs hail from a number of imports originating in Venezuela. Most of these animals in the trade have been mixed together over time, and the resulting animals available today are most likely a mix of various imports (and most likely various locales or populations). It is possible to track down import-specific animals from dedicated private hobbyists. Standard leucs tend to be bold, unafraid captives, constantly out and about in the vivarium. The males will typically call very frequently in a high pitched, canary-like voice.

Banded leucomelas, also known as Guyana leucs, hail from British Guyana. There may be multiple populations of these animals represented in the hobby, but the relationship is unclear at best. Arguably, there are 3 notable phenotypes present – animals that are mostly black as adults, animals that are approximately 50/50 yellow and black with very evenly spaced bands (these resemble Oophaga lehmanni), and animals that closely resemble standard leucomelas but are much larger (currently referred to as ‘Guyana Yellow’ Leucs in the hobby). All three of these forms seem to breed true (their offspring resemble the parents), and it is my personal belief they represent isolated collection points, if not distinct populations. Banded leucs tend to be more reclusive than standard leucs, spending much less time out and about in the vivarium. They also call less frequently, and can be more difficult to breed.

There are 2 distinct ‘morphs’ of Dendrobates leucomelas commonly encountered in the hobby – “Standard” Leucs (left) and “Banded” Leucs (right). Several other morphs/locales/imports exist, but are much harder to find.

Other ‘morphs’ of Dendrobates leucomelas in the hobby include Fine Spot/Small Spot leucomelas, Green foot leucs, and chocolate leucs (which are actually homozygous for a recessive trait, and have been intentionally bred – they do not represent a population in the wild). Different types of leucs are best housed separately from each other.

Dendrobates leucomelas reach sexual maturity at 6 to 12 months. It’s not uncommon for males to begin calling as early as 6 months, but it typically takes females several more months to mature. Leucs prefer to lay on smooth leaves or on petri dishes under coco huts in the vivarium, much like Dendrobates tinctorius. They can be seasonal breeders, producing for a couple months at a time, between breaks of several months. In the wild, they are subject to severe dry seasons and temperature fluctuations, which explains this behavior. Their ability to not only survive, but thrive, in such seasonal conditions makes them a notably hardy species in captivity, especially when it comes to heat tolerance. They will utilize every inch of the vivarium, and are much more prone to climbing than many heavy-bodied frogs of a similar size.

The Green and Black Dart Frog – Dendrobates auratus

Auratus, as they are known in the trade, are another great addition to our list of beginner dart frogs. They are strikingly colored, and vary widely based on populations (and sometimes among the same population). Auratus are easy to breed, keep, and make great group animals, displaying almost no aggression in most situations.

Dendrobates auratus come in a wide variety of color and patterns. From left to right, top to bottom: Camo, Costa Rican Green and Black, Kahula and Cream, Nicaraguan Green and Black, Highland Bronze, Panamanian Green and Black, Panamanian Blue and Black, Hawaiian (Tobaga Island, Panama), and Turquoise and Bronze.

Dendrobates auratus are the least bold frogs on this list, and can be fairly reclusive in the vivarium. There are steps you can take to increase their visibility, however. Insure the frogs are provided with a well-planted vivarium, include a thick layer of leaf litter, and provide plenty of visual barriers to make the frogs feel more comfortable. Auratus are often found near small streams in the wild – providing them with a small water feature, such as a pond or stream, in the vivarium will encourage them to venture from their hiding places more often, and will be utilized for breeding activity. Constructing ledges or cracks in the background that auratus can squeeze into (so that their back is in contact with the ledge above them) will make the auratus feel more secure. Most importantly, placing the vivarium in an area of the home that gets a lot of foot traffic will familiarize the frogs to intrusion, and cause them to pay less notice of being observed.

Auratus typically mature around 8-12 months. Depending on the morph, males are generally 1-1.5”, with females being about .25-.5” longer. Mature females also display a characteristic pear shape that is apparent when they are carrying eggs. Their call is a faint buzzing that is barely audible unless you are in the vivarium with them! They are easy to breed (with some exceptions), and typically lay 4-8 eggs every couple of weeks. The smaller forms of auratus will lay in film canisters, but all will lay on smooth leaves or on petri dishes under coco huts.

Conclusion

Starting out in the hobby can be an overwhelming task. Dart frogs are by no means difficult captives, but there is a lot of information out there to sort through before bringing your first frogs home. Hopefully, this guide will have answered some common beginner questions, and put you on the right foot starting out in the very rewarding hobby of poison dart frog keeping.

Next week, we’ll explore the care, culture, and uses of microfauna in the natural vivarium.

A Pre-Guide to Getting Started in the Hobby

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Poison Dart Frogs make amazing captives. They are colorful, relatively easy to care for, low maintenance, and available captive bred from a wide number of sources. A properly set up vivarium can easily be the focal point of any living room. It’s hard to think of any reasons why someone would not want to keep some of these colorful anurans. However, there are some things to consider before bringing your froggy pet home.

Toxicity

In captivity, Poison Dart Frogs are harmless. They glean their toxic characteristics from a diet of various insects and arthropods found in the jungles of Central and South America. At this point in time, it is not possible to make a captive bred dart frog toxic. Even with wild caught frogs, they tend to lose their toxicity over a period of months when they are subject to a captive diet.

 In the wild, this Phyllobates terribilis has enough toxins in it’s skin to kill several men. In captivity, it is harmless.

Buy Captive Bred

Captive bred (CB) Dart Frogs are much better suited for life in captivity. They are already used to the confines of a vivarium, and are generally much bolder and more readily settle in to a new environment. CB Dart Frogs also are typically much healthier than their wild caught brethren. Parasites are less of an issue, and captive bred frogs never had to undergo the stress of being caught, held, then shipped to another country. There are also less environmental concerns with captive bred frogs – the frogs are not being directly removed from a potentially declining wild population just for your enjoyment! Every captive bred frog purchased is one less wild caught frog removed from it’s natural habitat.

 This Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Cobalt’ metamorph is well on it’s way to being a healthy CB froglet.

Longevity

Being that they are relatively small, it may come as a surprise that dart frogs can live well over a decade. It’s not uncommon for thumbnails (Ranitomeya sp.) to live upwards of a decade. Larger frogs, such as tincs (Dendrobates tinctorius) can live over two decades. There are reports of D. auratus living well over 25 years! Make sure that you take this into consideration before purchasing a dart frog – it may very well be with you for the next couple decades!

 Dendrobates auratus ‘Costa Rican Green and Black’. There are reports of D. Auratus living over 25 years!

Temperature

Dart frogs, hailing from Central and South America, require certain temperature ranges to stay healthy. Unlike us, dart frogs, along with all other amphibians and reptiles, are exothermic, commonly referred to as “cold blooded”. This means that they cannot control their body temperature, and are dependent on their environment staying within a set temperature range. As a general rule, you want to keep dart frogs between 60-80 F, with a temperature drop during the night. Some species, such as Phyllobates sp. or Epipedobates sp., prefer it slightly cooler. Temperatures over 80 F can stress your frogs, and higher temperatures can quickly lead to their demise.

 Some frogs, such as this Phyllobates bicolor ‘Gold’, prefer cooler temperatures.

Keep in mind that your future frog companions will depend on you to provide the proper temperatures for them. In some parts of the country, this may mean running the furnace or air conditioner when you normally would not, leading to additional energy expenses. In the event of a power failure in winter or summer, you may need to find a refuge for your frogs with more stable temperatures, such as a friend’s house or a hotel.

Housing

A properly set up living vivarium is a work of art. It can contain various orchids, bromeliads, mosses, ferns, water features, and all the characteristics of that imaginary tropical oasis that we all have in our minds. A vivarium can easily be the focal point of any room, and a topic of conversation.

 A living vivarium is truly a work of art!

Although much less expensive than actually traveling to the habitat it attempts to emulate, setting up a vivarium is often not a cheap endeavor. It requires both money and experience, either first-hand or learned, to be successful. It’s common to spend more on the vivarium than you would on the frogs! For novices, a 20H to 29G glass aquarium, or one of many of the glass terrariums available on the market, make for a great start to your first living work of art.

If you aren’t sure how to setup a dart frog tank, we highly recommend our Dart Frog Habitat Kits.

Feeding

Even though many Poison Dart Frogs can reach a size of 2-3 inches, most will not readily consume prey over an eighth of an inch. There are some exceptions (Phyllobates sp., Epipedobates sp.. Ameerega sp., among others), but as a general rule, you will be responsible for providing a varied diet of small fruit flies, crickets, springtails, isopods, and the like to your anuran wards. Fortunately, these foods are readily available from a variety of online sources, and even some pet stores have begun to carry them. Most are also easily cultured cheaply at home! If you have a fear of bugs, or are unwilling to have them in your home, Dart Frogs may not be the pet for you.

 Small insects, such as this fruit fly (Drosophila hydei) make up the majority of Dart Frog diets.

Maintenance

One of the many pluses of living vivariums is that they are relatively low maintenance. This does not mean that they are maintenance free, however. Chores such as misting, feeding, pruning plants, cleaning glass, and the like will have to be done on a regular basis. Save yourself some hassle (and make a more stable environment for your frogs!) by investing in a quality timer for the lights. Time will also need to be spent every week making new cultures of feeder insects, and if you are lucky enough to breed Dart Frogs, caring for the eggs, tadpoles, and resulting froglets. Expect to spend about 30 minutes a week taking care of a single vivarium. It’s not a bad idea to make a list of weekly chores that need to be done.

 Wiping algae from glass is just one of many chores that come with the responsibility of Dart Frog ownership.

Expense

The Dart Frog Hobby can be an expensive one. Currently, most dart frogs cost $30-70 each. A vivarium can easily cost from one to several hundred dollars to set up and maintain. Additional electricity and water will be spent on maintaining the vivarium and it’s anuran inhabitants. There will be costs involved in procuring food for your pets – some of these can be offset by you making your own cultures at home. Although not expensive to maintain in the long run, initially preparing for Dart Frogs in the home can be a costly undertaking.

 The Dart Frog hobby can be expensive. Frogs, such as this Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Azureus’, typically cost $50-$70.

Conclusion

Ultimately, you are responsible for the well-being of your future froggy pets. You will have to not only feed them, but insure that they have everything they need to be happy and healthy. An enclosure will have to be constructed with their needs in mind, to provide a secure environment in which they can grow and prosper.

That being said, I hope that you decide to pursue Poison Dart Frog ownership. It is a very rewarding endeavor, and can lead to many more additional interests. For those of you with children, caring for animals can teach many life lessons difficult to teach any way else. A vivarium itself is something wonderful to have in the home or office – it brings a slice of nature into an otherwise structured and artificial world.

Next week, we’ll look at some of the best Dart Frogs to start with if you’re new to the hobby.