An Overview of the Strata of Vivarium Substrates

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

The modern living vivarium can seem like a complicated endeavor to outsiders – the most puzzling part being what is traditionally not the focus: the lower strata. A variety of materials are used as substrate in order to provide a climate that promotes both the health of the plants and frogs. The use of such things as drainage layers and leaf litter may seem much more involved than they actually are – this blog post will provide a basic overview of the different substrate strata, explaining both how they are used, and why. We will start at the bottom, and halt before discussing plants and hardscape, which will be the topic of next week’s blog.

Hydroton

Hydroton is a brand of LECA, or Light Expanded Clay Aggregate. It has been kiln fired to increase durability. Hydroton is a very lightweight option for creating a false bottom, which serves to create a void for excess water to go (so it does not saturate the soil layer). It also wicks water slowly back into the substrate, allowing for a more humid environment. Additionally, Hydroton provides a large amount of surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow. These bacteria will work to metabolize wastes from the system, resulting in a cleaner environment.

Substrate Barrier

Simply put, the substrate barrier included in the kit is placed between the Hydroton and substrate layers in the vivarium to prevent the substrate from pushing down into the Hydroton. This keeps the substrate drier, improving growing conditions in the vivarium, as well as extending the life of the substrate. The substrate barrier can be cut or folded to fit in your specific enclosure.

Atlanta Botanical Garden (ABG) Mix

ABG mix is a premium substrate for tropical vivariums. A precise blend of tree fern fiber, charcoal, sphagnum peat, long fiber sphagnum, and fir bark, this substrate is capable of lasting several years when used properly. Originally perfected by the Atlanta Botanical Gardens of Atlanta, Georgia, this substrate will support a sizable population of microfauna while allowing plants to thrive. It is a good idea to wet the substrate before placing it in the vivarium.

Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss

Long Fiber Sphagnum moss lasts a long time in the vivarium, and has natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. It is placed between the substrate and leaf litter layers in a vivarium to prevent the substrate from adhering to the frogs, and to increase the suitable environment for microfauna. The Long Fiber Sphagnum moss comes in an compressed brick, and will need to be expanded in water previous to use.

Leaf Litter

Leaf litter is an integral part of a naturalistic vivaria. It slowly breaks down, providing both organic food for the microfauna and plants in the tank. Leaf litter also provides hiding places and visual barriers for the larger inhabitants of the vivarium. It is the final layer in the vivarium. Leaf litter may consist of Live Oak, Sea Grape, Magnolia, or a combination of the three, or any other non-toxic leaf that is chemical-free. Typically, southern or tropical varieties of leaves are used, as these tend to be thicker, and take longer to break down in the vivaria.

The Strata of Vivarium Substrates

The above mentioned substrates are simply layered in the vivarium at different depths, beginning with about 2” of hydroton, then the substrate barrier, then 2-3” of ABG mix, followed by an inch of long fiber sphagnum moss, and topped with a hearty layer of leaf litter. The illustration below provides a visual example of this concept.

The different strata of substrates in a naturalistic vivarium.

Water Flow in the Vivarium

Water is added to the vivarium typically via fogging or misting, or a combination of the two. It settles on the plants, hardscape, and in the leaf litter, before traveling through the soil, and finally settling in the false bottom, or hydroton. Hydroton slowly wicks water back into the ABG mix, keeping it moist, but not saturated. This provides a humid, damp substrate that many plants, frogs, and microfauna thrive in. Keeping about 1” of standing water in the bottom of the vivarium will help maintain humidity – just make sure that the water never directly touches the substrate barrier or ABG mix, as this will quickly result in a saturated, sopping wet mess that is unhealthy both for plants and animals. Anerobic bacteria can quickly take hold in these conditions, and threaten the well-being of the inhabitants, as well as producing unpleasant smells. If this ever happens, all of the substrate layers above the substrate barrier will need to be replaced immediately. For this reason, excess water must be removed from the vivarium – I create a small pond in the front corner of each vivarium, and remove excess water from that via a suction hose.

Water flow in a vivarium.

Conclusion

Vivariums can seem a complicated endeavor at first glance, but the steps to build a well-functioning environment, and the concepts behind it, are not nearly as mysterious as they first may seem. With a little bit of research and planning, and initial investment in the proper supplies, anyone is capable of creating their own little slice of jungle.

Next week, we will discuss the basic groups of vivarium plants, and how to utilize them in the vivarium.

Part II: Dendrobatid Froglet Care

Introduction

Dendrobatids, more commonly known as dart frogs, reproduce by laying eggs. These develop into a free-swimming larvae, before coming out of the water as miniature versions of the adults. In this installment, we’ll discuss how to morph out healthy froglets, and raise them for the first few months.

Metamorphing Larvae

When the tadpole show both it’s back legs (visible about a month before it emerges from the water) and it’s front legs (visible about a week before it emerges from the water), it’s time to switch it into a container that it can easily crawl out of the water and onto land. At JoshsFrogs, we simply turn the 32oz container we used to raise the tadpole at a 45 degree angle, drain out most of the water, and place a vented insect cup lid on top to prevent an unintentional escape.

Tilting the container 45 degrees provides a gentle slope for the froglet to emerge.

At this time, the froglet is absorbing it’s tail and using it as a food source – there is no need to feed. The future froglet will remain in the water for a time, and may emerge periodically, returning to the water when they are frightened. When the froglet is seen out of the water for the majority of the time, it is then removed to a rearing bin. It is not uncommon for part of the tail to remain at this point – the froglet will continue to absorb it, and will not take food for a few days after the tail is no longer visible.

When froglets first emerge from the water, it is not unusual for them to have some tail remaining.

Care of Froglets

After they have left the water, froglets are removed to rearing bins. We use 128oz 9.75” diameter plastic food storage containers to house froglets in pairs. Larger containers can be used, and froglets can be raised together in larger groups, but we find that pairs work best for us.

128oz plastic containers work great for rearing froglets.

We use a substrate of damp long fiber sphagnum moss, with a few dried leaves and a plant clipping. The sphagnum moss has natural antibacterial properties, and keeps the enclosure at a constant high humidity level. The plant clipping uses up nutrients (ie waste) as it grows, and the dried leaves provide hiding places for the young frogs. Springtails are added to the enclosure to help maintain a clean environment, as well as provide a constant food source for the young amphibians. We feed them 3 times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) with small fruit flies. The flies are dusted with a vitamin and mineral supplement (we alternate between Repashy Calcium Plus, RepCal Calcium with D3, and RepCal Herptivite) at every feeding.

Springtails and dusted Fruit Flies make up the bulk of a young froglet’s diet.

Make sure to provide a constant food source for the young and growing frogs. You want a small number of food items to be present at any given time, but you never want there to be such a large amount that it stresses out the frog. With proper care, this simple enclosure will provide the optimal environment for the new frogs to thrive for the first 2-4 months of their life out of the water. At this point, they are typically moved into large quarters or a vivarium.

After froglets are several months old, they care ready to be introduced into a vivarium.

Conclusion

Amphibian literally means two-sided life – the origin of this term is very apparent in the life cycle of the dart frog. Care of the metamorphing animals and subsequent froglets is by no means difficult, but is a vital part of ending up with healthy adult frogs.

Next week, we will look at how to assemble a basic dart frog vivarium.

Dendrobatid Egg and Tadpole Care

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Dendrobatids, more commonly known as dart frogs, reproduce by laying eggs. These develop into a free-swimming larvae, before coming out of the water as miniature versions of the adults. Care of the eggs and larvae are very different than caring for the frogs in their final form – this blog entry will help insure the young animals get the proper care they need.

Egg Care

Depending on the species of dart frogs, eggs may be deposited on leaves, in film canisters, on petri dishes under coco huts, or even on the glass wall of the vivarium itself. Egg clutches can vary greatly in size – some only lay 2-3 eggs at a time (Ranitomeya sp.), while some are capable of laying several dozen in one clutch (Phyllobates sp.).

Dart frogs will lay egg clutches consisting of 2 to several dozen eggs, depending on the species.

This is a clutch of Phyllobates vittatus eggs.

Once found, the eggs can be removed from the vivaria for artificial rearing. If they are attached to a leaf or laid on the glass, they can be removed with a variety of objects (I primarily use a large spoon or razor). If they are laid on a petri dish or in a film canister, the entire object can be removed from the vivarium. I use a Slurpee straw to remove eggs from the film canister and place them on a petri dish. The same is done with eggs laid on leaves or the glass.

Now that the eggs are on a petri dish, they need to be kept moist. I use reverse osmosis water with a bit of boiled peat added to it to mist the eggs, until there is a small pool of water just touching the eggs. The petri dish is placed in an 8oz container (or similar; I used to use Ziploc sandwich containers) that contains a small amount of water on the bottom (usually just enough to cover the bottom of the container). The container is labeled with the species and date laid, and kept at a temperature in the 70s F.

Keep eggs moist by placing them in a sealed container with water.

Observe the eggs as development progresses. Bad (unfertilized) eggs will generally turn white and mold over – these eggs should be carefully removed and discarded. Fertilized eggs will slowly develop a line across the sphere of the egg – this is the tadpole’s body forming. The tadpole will continue to grow as the sphere (yolk) shrinks in size, until a fully developed tadpole is visible in the egg.

From right to left, Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Cobalt’ egg at 1,4,10, and 15 days.

Tadpole Care

Depending on species, the eggs will hatch in approximately 14-21 days after they were laid, assuming they were fertilized. It can be difficult to see if a tadpole is out of the clear egg gel. The tadpole will assumed a curled position as it grows in the egg. Once it assumes a straightened position, it has hatched. Initially, the tadpole will remain stationary as it absorbs the remains of the yolk, and may not respond to stimuli.

Left: Unhatched egg, on the verge of hatching. Right: A newly hatched Dendrobatid tadpole.

Once the tadpole has absorbed it’s yolk (typically within 24-36 hours of hatching), it is carefully removed with a turkey baster and placed in a labeled 32oz plastic cup with approximately 8 oz of the same reverse osmosis/boiled peat mixture as used on the eggs. Additionally, a piece of Indian almond leaf and a bit of java moss are placed in the water. The Indian almond leaf releases tannins into the water, which function as a natural anti-fungal and anti-bacteria agent, as well as providing shelter for the tadpole, and an increased surface area to graze on. The java moss produces oxygen, and serves as a source of filtration and nitrogen uptake. The water is kept shallow initially to facilitate the tadpole’s ability to swim to the surface and gulp air.

Tadpoles are kept in 32oz cups. Make sure to label your tadpoles carefully if you are working with multiple species!

After a few days, the tadpole cup is topped off with reverse osmosis water, and is fed for the first time. There are a wide array of foods available for tadpoles – we feed primarily HBH Frog and Tadpole Bites, as well as Sera Micron, and have had much success with these products. When selecting a food, it is important to choose one that does not readily foul the water, and contains a significant percentage of protein and vital minerals and vitamins. The tadpoles are fed 1-2 bits of food 2-3 times a week, and kept at temperatures in the low to mid 70s F.

Over the next several weeks, the tadpole will continue to grow. As the water evaporates, it is topped off with reverse osmosis water. After approximately 6-8 weeks (this depends greatly on species and the temperature the tadpole is raised at, with high temperatures resulting in faster metamorphosis and smaller froglets), the tadpole will develop visible back legs. After another month, the front legs will become visible. The front legs actually develop at the same time as the back legs in frogs, but do not emerge until much later. Once all four legs are visible, it is time to prepare your tadpole for morphing.

Conclusion

Amphibian literally means two-sided life – the origin of this term is very apparent in the life cycle of the dart frog. Care of the eggs and aquatic larvae differ greatly from that of the adult animal, but is by no means difficult.

Next week, we will look at the care of morphing tadpoles and young froglets.

3 Great ‘Starter Frogs’ for Beginners

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Few things draw as much attention at pet stores or reptile shows as Poison Dart Frogs. They are colorful, active, and interesting captives, which are fairly easy to care for. Not all species are as forgiving as others, however. The following 3 species of PDFs are much more resistant to common mistakes made by new frog owners, and make a great first frog for those new to the dart frog hobby.

The Dyeing Poison Arrow Frog – Dendrobates tinctorius

Dendrobates tinctorius, or tincs as they are known in the hobby, are large, colorful frogs that occur over a wide area in the South American countries of Brazil, Guyana, French Guiana and Suriname, with most of the locales available in the hobby hailing from Suriname. Each population of Dendrobates tinctorius possesses unique colors and patterns – these different locales can vary widely in adult size and aggression as well.

Dendrobates tinctorius vary greatly as a species. Each color morph represents a unique population in the wild, and should not be mixed with other populations. From left to right, top to bottom: Oyapok, Brazilian Yellow Head, Citronella, Azureus, Matecho, Patricia, Suriname Cobaly, Giant Orange, Powder Blue, Regina, Lorenzo, Yellow Back.

Given this wide array of colors and patterns, it is tempting to mix and match several different morphs, to create a colorful group of animals in the vivarium. However, this is not a good choice – not only can these different populations of tincs crossbreed, they also tend to not get along with each other in the long run, leading to fighting and casualties. The different morphs of Dendrobates tinctorius are best left to their own individual vivariums.

Just because different populations of Dendrobates tinctorius should not be mixed does not mean that you cannot have a diverse group of frogs in the vivarium. Above are 6 sibling Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Yellowback’.

Adult tincs typically measure from 1.25-2.5” depending on morph and age. These frogs can get quite large, and are best kept with sturdy plants in the vivarium, such as pothos. They can trample small, delicate vivarium plants. Dendrobates tinctorius are primarily a ground-dwelling frog, and are better suited to large, horizontally oriented vivaria, where they will spend most of their time exploring the leaf litter hunting for microfauna. Their call Is a very faint buzz, which is nearly inaudible.

Tincs are fine raised in groups as froglets, but sometimes do need to be split up as they age. Dendrobates tinctorius is sexually mature at 10-14 months of age for most locales. They typically lay on smooth leaves or under coco huts. Adult females can fight with each other over access to a mate, so it is best to limit the group to one mature female. These bold and outgoing vivarium inhabitants can with well over two decades if cared for properly.

The Bumble Bee Poison Dart Frog – Dendrobates leucomelas

Dendrobates leucomelas, known as the Bumble Bee Poison Dart frog, or Leuc, in the trade, makes another great beginner frog. They are active, bold, and do great in groups – typically, the only problem you may run into will be females eating each others’ eggs. They display very contrasting yellow and black bands, and have a loud, pleasant call. They naturally occur in Venezuela, Guyana, Brazil, and eastern Colombia.

Dendrobates leucomelas ‘Fine Spot’. Leucs come in a variety of patterns, each probably representing a population or locale in the wild.

There are 2 predominate ‘morphs’ of Dendrobates leucomelas in the hobby – Standard Leucs (commonly just referred to as ‘Leucs’) and Banded Leucs. Standard leucs hail from a number of imports originating in Venezuela. Most of these animals in the trade have been mixed together over time, and the resulting animals available today are most likely a mix of various imports (and most likely various locales or populations). It is possible to track down import-specific animals from dedicated private hobbyists. Standard leucs tend to be bold, unafraid captives, constantly out and about in the vivarium. The males will typically call very frequently in a high pitched, canary-like voice.

Banded leucomelas, also known as Guyana leucs, hail from British Guyana. There may be multiple populations of these animals represented in the hobby, but the relationship is unclear at best. Arguably, there are 3 notable phenotypes present – animals that are mostly black as adults, animals that are approximately 50/50 yellow and black with very evenly spaced bands (these resemble Oophaga lehmanni), and animals that closely resemble standard leucomelas but are much larger (currently referred to as ‘Guyana Yellow’ Leucs in the hobby). All three of these forms seem to breed true (their offspring resemble the parents), and it is my personal belief they represent isolated collection points, if not distinct populations. Banded leucs tend to be more reclusive than standard leucs, spending much less time out and about in the vivarium. They also call less frequently, and can be more difficult to breed.

There are 2 distinct ‘morphs’ of Dendrobates leucomelas commonly encountered in the hobby – “Standard” Leucs (left) and “Banded” Leucs (right). Several other morphs/locales/imports exist, but are much harder to find.

Other ‘morphs’ of Dendrobates leucomelas in the hobby include Fine Spot/Small Spot leucomelas, Green foot leucs, and chocolate leucs (which are actually homozygous for a recessive trait, and have been intentionally bred – they do not represent a population in the wild). Different types of leucs are best housed separately from each other.

Dendrobates leucomelas reach sexual maturity at 6 to 12 months. It’s not uncommon for males to begin calling as early as 6 months, but it typically takes females several more months to mature. Leucs prefer to lay on smooth leaves or on petri dishes under coco huts in the vivarium, much like Dendrobates tinctorius. They can be seasonal breeders, producing for a couple months at a time, between breaks of several months. In the wild, they are subject to severe dry seasons and temperature fluctuations, which explains this behavior. Their ability to not only survive, but thrive, in such seasonal conditions makes them a notably hardy species in captivity, especially when it comes to heat tolerance. They will utilize every inch of the vivarium, and are much more prone to climbing than many heavy-bodied frogs of a similar size.

The Green and Black Dart Frog – Dendrobates auratus

Auratus, as they are known in the trade, are another great addition to our list of beginner dart frogs. They are strikingly colored, and vary widely based on populations (and sometimes among the same population). Auratus are easy to breed, keep, and make great group animals, displaying almost no aggression in most situations.

Dendrobates auratus come in a wide variety of color and patterns. From left to right, top to bottom: Camo, Costa Rican Green and Black, Kahula and Cream, Nicaraguan Green and Black, Highland Bronze, Panamanian Green and Black, Panamanian Blue and Black, Hawaiian (Tobaga Island, Panama), and Turquoise and Bronze.

Dendrobates auratus are the least bold frogs on this list, and can be fairly reclusive in the vivarium. There are steps you can take to increase their visibility, however. Insure the frogs are provided with a well-planted vivarium, include a thick layer of leaf litter, and provide plenty of visual barriers to make the frogs feel more comfortable. Auratus are often found near small streams in the wild – providing them with a small water feature, such as a pond or stream, in the vivarium will encourage them to venture from their hiding places more often, and will be utilized for breeding activity. Constructing ledges or cracks in the background that auratus can squeeze into (so that their back is in contact with the ledge above them) will make the auratus feel more secure. Most importantly, placing the vivarium in an area of the home that gets a lot of foot traffic will familiarize the frogs to intrusion, and cause them to pay less notice of being observed.

Auratus typically mature around 8-12 months. Depending on the morph, males are generally 1-1.5”, with females being about .25-.5” longer. Mature females also display a characteristic pear shape that is apparent when they are carrying eggs. Their call is a faint buzzing that is barely audible unless you are in the vivarium with them! They are easy to breed (with some exceptions), and typically lay 4-8 eggs every couple of weeks. The smaller forms of auratus will lay in film canisters, but all will lay on smooth leaves or on petri dishes under coco huts.

Conclusion

Starting out in the hobby can be an overwhelming task. Dart frogs are by no means difficult captives, but there is a lot of information out there to sort through before bringing your first frogs home. Hopefully, this guide will have answered some common beginner questions, and put you on the right foot starting out in the very rewarding hobby of poison dart frog keeping.

Next week, we’ll explore the care, culture, and uses of microfauna in the natural vivarium.

A Pre-Guide to Getting Started in the Hobby

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Poison Dart Frogs make amazing captives. They are colorful, relatively easy to care for, low maintenance, and available captive bred from a wide number of sources. A properly set up vivarium can easily be the focal point of any living room. It’s hard to think of any reasons why someone would not want to keep some of these colorful anurans. However, there are some things to consider before bringing your froggy pet home.

Toxicity

In captivity, Poison Dart Frogs are harmless. They glean their toxic characteristics from a diet of various insects and arthropods found in the jungles of Central and South America. At this point in time, it is not possible to make a captive bred dart frog toxic. Even with wild caught frogs, they tend to lose their toxicity over a period of months when they are subject to a captive diet.

 In the wild, this Phyllobates terribilis has enough toxins in it’s skin to kill several men. In captivity, it is harmless.

Buy Captive Bred

Captive bred (CB) Dart Frogs are much better suited for life in captivity. They are already used to the confines of a vivarium, and are generally much bolder and more readily settle in to a new environment. CB Dart Frogs also are typically much healthier than their wild caught brethren. Parasites are less of an issue, and captive bred frogs never had to undergo the stress of being caught, held, then shipped to another country. There are also less environmental concerns with captive bred frogs – the frogs are not being directly removed from a potentially declining wild population just for your enjoyment! Every captive bred frog purchased is one less wild caught frog removed from it’s natural habitat.

 This Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Cobalt’ metamorph is well on it’s way to being a healthy CB froglet.

Longevity

Being that they are relatively small, it may come as a surprise that dart frogs can live well over a decade. It’s not uncommon for thumbnails (Ranitomeya sp.) to live upwards of a decade. Larger frogs, such as tincs (Dendrobates tinctorius) can live over two decades. There are reports of D. auratus living well over 25 years! Make sure that you take this into consideration before purchasing a dart frog – it may very well be with you for the next couple decades!

 Dendrobates auratus ‘Costa Rican Green and Black’. There are reports of D. Auratus living over 25 years!

Temperature

Dart frogs, hailing from Central and South America, require certain temperature ranges to stay healthy. Unlike us, dart frogs, along with all other amphibians and reptiles, are exothermic, commonly referred to as “cold blooded”. This means that they cannot control their body temperature, and are dependent on their environment staying within a set temperature range. As a general rule, you want to keep dart frogs between 60-80 F, with a temperature drop during the night. Some species, such as Phyllobates sp. or Epipedobates sp., prefer it slightly cooler. Temperatures over 80 F can stress your frogs, and higher temperatures can quickly lead to their demise.

 Some frogs, such as this Phyllobates bicolor ‘Gold’, prefer cooler temperatures.

Keep in mind that your future frog companions will depend on you to provide the proper temperatures for them. In some parts of the country, this may mean running the furnace or air conditioner when you normally would not, leading to additional energy expenses. In the event of a power failure in winter or summer, you may need to find a refuge for your frogs with more stable temperatures, such as a friend’s house or a hotel.

Housing

A properly set up living vivarium is a work of art. It can contain various orchids, bromeliads, mosses, ferns, water features, and all the characteristics of that imaginary tropical oasis that we all have in our minds. A vivarium can easily be the focal point of any room, and a topic of conversation.

 A living vivarium is truly a work of art!

Although much less expensive than actually traveling to the habitat it attempts to emulate, setting up a vivarium is often not a cheap endeavor. It requires both money and experience, either first-hand or learned, to be successful. It’s common to spend more on the vivarium than you would on the frogs! For novices, a 20H to 29G glass aquarium, or one of many of the glass terrariums available on the market, make for a great start to your first living work of art.

If you aren’t sure how to setup a dart frog tank, we highly recommend our Dart Frog Habitat Kits.

Feeding

Even though many Poison Dart Frogs can reach a size of 2-3 inches, most will not readily consume prey over an eighth of an inch. There are some exceptions (Phyllobates sp., Epipedobates sp.. Ameerega sp., among others), but as a general rule, you will be responsible for providing a varied diet of small fruit flies, crickets, springtails, isopods, and the like to your anuran wards. Fortunately, these foods are readily available from a variety of online sources, and even some pet stores have begun to carry them. Most are also easily cultured cheaply at home! If you have a fear of bugs, or are unwilling to have them in your home, Dart Frogs may not be the pet for you.

 Small insects, such as this fruit fly (Drosophila hydei) make up the majority of Dart Frog diets.

Maintenance

One of the many pluses of living vivariums is that they are relatively low maintenance. This does not mean that they are maintenance free, however. Chores such as misting, feeding, pruning plants, cleaning glass, and the like will have to be done on a regular basis. Save yourself some hassle (and make a more stable environment for your frogs!) by investing in a quality timer for the lights. Time will also need to be spent every week making new cultures of feeder insects, and if you are lucky enough to breed Dart Frogs, caring for the eggs, tadpoles, and resulting froglets. Expect to spend about 30 minutes a week taking care of a single vivarium. It’s not a bad idea to make a list of weekly chores that need to be done.

 Wiping algae from glass is just one of many chores that come with the responsibility of Dart Frog ownership.

Expense

The Dart Frog Hobby can be an expensive one. Currently, most dart frogs cost $30-70 each. A vivarium can easily cost from one to several hundred dollars to set up and maintain. Additional electricity and water will be spent on maintaining the vivarium and it’s anuran inhabitants. There will be costs involved in procuring food for your pets – some of these can be offset by you making your own cultures at home. Although not expensive to maintain in the long run, initially preparing for Dart Frogs in the home can be a costly undertaking.

 The Dart Frog hobby can be expensive. Frogs, such as this Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Azureus’, typically cost $50-$70.

Conclusion

Ultimately, you are responsible for the well-being of your future froggy pets. You will have to not only feed them, but insure that they have everything they need to be happy and healthy. An enclosure will have to be constructed with their needs in mind, to provide a secure environment in which they can grow and prosper.

That being said, I hope that you decide to pursue Poison Dart Frog ownership. It is a very rewarding endeavor, and can lead to many more additional interests. For those of you with children, caring for animals can teach many life lessons difficult to teach any way else. A vivarium itself is something wonderful to have in the home or office – it brings a slice of nature into an otherwise structured and artificial world.

Next week, we’ll look at some of the best Dart Frogs to start with if you’re new to the hobby.

Part II: Sexing Other Common Dendrobatids

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Dart frogs, like many frogs, can be difficult to sex based on outward appearance. Sure, we all know males call and females lay eggs, but how can you tell who is who just by looking at them? The following hints and tips are meant to help you in establishing the sex of your anuran pets.

This is part two of a two part article on visually sexing dart frogs. It focuses on Dendrobates auratus, D. leucomelas, D. truncatus, Phyllobates sp., and Ranitomeya sp. Many of these frogs share characteristics that make sexing them very similar, especially if they have reached sexual maturity.

Sexing Dendrobates auratus. D. leucomelas, and D. truncatus

Auratus, Leucs, and Truncs are all considered part of the “Tinctorius Group”, and are very closely related to Dendrobates tinctorius. However, sexing them is often more difficult. Generally, by 8-10 months, an experienced keeper can make an educated guess. The older the frogs are, the more apparent their sex – by 2 or 3 years, the differences are often very obvious at first glance. Trucs tend to be pretty difficult to visually sex, regardless of age.

1. Size: As a general rule, female frogs will be larger than their male counterparts. This assumes that feeding, housing, and age are similar.

Dendrobates auratus ‘Costa Rican Green and Black’

2. Girth: Mature, breeding females generally appear pear shaped because they are carrying eggs. This can be obvious in some frogs, and much more subtle in others. If the frogs are overweight (a common occurrence in the hobby), it may be more difficult to distinguish between the two sexes.

Dendrobates leucomelas ‘British Guyana’

Sexing Phyllobates sp. And Epipedobates sp.

This group includes many popular hobby frogs, such as Phyllobates terribilis, P. bicolor, P. vittatus, and Epipedobates anthonyi. It can be fairly difficult to sex many of the species in these genus, and often times your best bet is to wait for calling or egg laying. After the animals are sufficiently old enough (typically 1-2 years), it’s possible to make an educated guess on sex based on body shape and size. Having a group of individuals to compare to will greatly aid you in your ability to properly sex the animals.

1. Size: As a general rule, female frogs will be larger than their male counterparts. This assumes that feeding, housing, and age are similar. Not only are females larger, but they tend to have a wider head, as well. Females also have a more robust, rotund appearance.

Phyllobates bicolor ‘Gold’

2. Girth: Sexually mature females will generally appear wider than males. This can be obvious in some frogs, and much more subtle in others. If the frogs are overweight (a common occurrence in the hobby), it may be much more difficult to distinguish between the two sexes. In my experience, these frogs typically do not develop the ‘pear shape’ evident in many females of other species.

Phyllobates vittatus

Sexing Thumbnail Dart Frogs

Thumbnail Dart Frogs are in the genus Ranitomeya. They are so called due to their diminutive adult size, with many species not exceeding the size of a thumbnail. Being so small would lead you to believe that visual sexing would be more difficult. Luckily, this group of frogs tends to reach sexual maturity at a young age (I’ve had R. ventrimaculata successfully breed as young as 4 months, although breeding at 6-8 months is more common), and show sexual dimorphism at an earlier age than other dendrobatids. When visually sexing thumbnails, there is two basic features that stand out.

1. Appearance of body length: Even though female thumbnails tend to be larger, and longer, often males have a lanky, stretched out appearance. This contrasts greatly to the pear shape of a sexually mature female carrying eggs.

Ranitomeya lamasi ‘Standard/Highland’

2. Size: As a general rule, female Ranitomeya sp. will be larger than their male counterparts. This assumes that feeding, housing, and age are similar. This is especially evident when the frogs are in the 4-6 month range.

Ranitomeya ventrimaculata ‘Amazonicus’

Conclusion

Although visually sexing dart frogs is by no means an exact science, by using the presented guidelines along with the experience that will come with time, an experienced dart frog keeper can make accurate predictions on the sex of the animals before they are sexually mature. Most of the time, raising young frogs together in a group will allow for easier selection of pairs (as you have more individuals to compare against each other), as well as presenting a greater chance of getting at least one male and one female.

Next week, we’ll go over some basic information that needs to be considered before bringing home your first dart frogs. We’ll review things such as longevity, diet, temperature requirements, and housing that make dart frogs amazing pets, but not for everyone.

Part I: Sexing Dendrobates tinctorius

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Dart frogs, like many frogs, can be difficult to sex based on outward appearance. Sure, we all know males call and females lay eggs, but how can you tell who is who just by looking at them? The following hints and tips are meant to help you in establishing the sex of your anuran pets.

This is the first installment in a two part guide to sexing dart frogs. It will deal with sexing Dendrobates tinctorius, the Dyeing Poison Arrow Frog. These frogs are one of the most popular species in the Dendrobatid hobby, and for good reason. They are bold, colorful, easy to breed, and widely available for reasonable prices.

Sexing Dendrobates tinctorius

Dendrobates tinctorius, known as ‘Tincs’ in the trade, are a very common beginner frog. They typically mature at around 12-18 months of age. With most locales in the trade, an educated guess about sex can be made at 8-10 months of age. There are 4 general characteristics that will aid you in sexing Tincs.

1. Toe pads: Male Dendrobates tinctorius tend to have larger, heart shaped toe pads on their front feet. Females will have much smaller toe pads. This rule is not steadfast, but is more correct than not among Tincs.

Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Cobalt’

2. Back Arch: As seen in the picture below, Female Tincs tend to have a higher back arch than males when both are viewed side by side. This characteristic is best used when comparing multiple animals to each other, and the frogs are in a relaxed state.

Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Patricia’

3. Size: As a general rule, female Tincs will be larger than their male counterparts. This assumes that feeding, housing, and age are similar.

Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Azureus’

4. Girth: Mature, breeding female Dendrobates tinctorius generally appear swollen or full, because they are carrying eggs. This is much more visible in some females than others. Take note that many frogs in the hobby are obese, which can negate this general rule.

Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Bakhuis’

Conclusion

Although visually sexing dart frogs is by no means an exact science, by using the presented guidelines along with the experience that will come with time, an experienced dart frog keeper can make accurate predictions on the sex of the animals before they are sexually mature. Most of the time, raising young frogs together in a group will allow for easier selection of pairs (as you have more individuals to compare against each other), as well as presenting a greater chance of getting at least one male and one female.

Next week’s article will be part 2 of how to visually sex dart frogs, focusing on Dendrobates auratus, D. leucomelas, D. truncatus, Phyllobates sp., and Ranitomeya sp. By following this guide, the user should be able to visually sex most of the common dart frogs in the hobby with practice.

1. They aren’t old enough. Most thumbnails can breed as early as 6 months out of the water, but larger frogs most often will not start breeding until they are over a year old. Tweaking variables to get them to breed sooner is at best futile and at worst unhealthy for the animals.

2. They aren’t a pair. Be very wary of people selling “sexed pairs” of frogs that are younger than the ages in #1 above.

3. You are bothering them. Once a year we clean off the slime on the front of our tanks for our open house. It takes most of our frogs about a month to start laying eggs again after this. Frogs love privacy, so provide lots of hiding spots and consider covering most/all of the sides of the tank.

4. Your humidity levels are too low. At Josh’s Frogs our breeders are setup with zero ventilation. Dart frog eggs need very high humidity and the frogs will not lay when they know their eggs are just going to dry out.

5. They aren’t healthy enough. Dusting your feeder insects with a calcium and multi-vitamin dust is important to prepare your frogs to breed.

6. Your breeding spots aren’t in the right condition.

   1. Most frogs will turn down a dirty petri dish. Make sure you use are cleaning/replacing your petri dishes regularly.

   2. Film Canisters get dirty fast. We dump the water out and refill 2 times a week as it gets pretty nasty fast.

   3. Different frogs require different breeding spots. Some like petri dishes under cocohuts, some like empty film canisters, some prefer the sides of the glass, and others prefer film canisters full of water.

As the tadpole grows in the egg, it will fill the egg and assume a C position. When the tadpole’s tail is straight again, you know it has hatched. It is now time to take the tadpole out of the petri dish. We use a turkey baster to get the tadpoles out. We then place the tadpoles individually in tadpole cups. We add 2″-3″ of Reverse Osmosis water, a piece of indian almond leaf and a small piece of Java Moss. After a day or two, we fill the cup up entirely. If you do not have a Reverse Osmosis System, we recommend that you use some of the water treatment products.

We feed my tadpoles a variety of tadpole foods. We feed once a week and NEVER do water changes.

Once the tadpole sprouts front legs, We pour out all of the water, get rid of the java moss, and add an inch or so of Reverse Osmosis water back into the cup. We then place the cup between two of the wires in the wire shelf. This creates a sloped area where the frogs can climb out. When we see a frog completely out of the water, we move the froglet into a froglet tub.

Froglets

Froglets get put into tubs in pairs. The tubs are a 190 oz container with sphagnum moss, some terrarium plants, and a film cannister. We seed all tubs with springtails so the froglets can have a variety of food. We feed all froglets every other day.

Sooner or later you will get eggs. Usually you will get a couple of clutches of eggs that will go bad and mold over. This is normal. Bad eggs will swell up and get cloudy. In developing eggs you can actually see the tadpole develop in the egg. When I get eggs, I take a paper towel, wet it, and place it in the bottom of a 24 oz Ziploc container. I then take the Petri dish and place it on the paper towel (I do not put the top of the Petri dish on Petri dish). I then add enough RO water to just touch eggs. If the eggs are laid on a film canister, leaf, or on the side of the tank, I scrap out the eggs and put them in a Petri dish and add water so it just touches the eggs. Finally, I put the Ziploc lid on and mark the top with species of frog egg.