What should I put in my terrarium? We’ve heard this question thousands of times, so perhaps this document might be useful to you. To select the proper plants, you need to ask yourself a few questions first.

First, what climate are you trying to imitate? More importantly, if you are going to put animals in your terrarium, what conditions do those animals require? Most people think of a terrarium as a jungle environment, always warm, wet and humid. This is one of the easiest climates to replicate. Most of the commonly available dart frogs would do well in this environment. If you are raising reptiles, you may want an environment that is more arid, with little humidity. Other animals may require seasonal temperature variation or changes in moisture levels at different seasons. These factors should guide your plant selection.

Second, how much light do you have? In general, terrariums should be lit with artificial sources of light. A sealed terrarium can easily cook in direct sunlight. If you use artificial light, you can control the duration and intensity of the light. Choosing the perfect light is the subject of a future document, it can be a complicated subject. If you already have a light you are going to use, install it in its final location above the terrarium and turn it on. Place your hand at different levels in the terrarium and look at the shadow you cast. A sharp edged shadow means the location is receiving ‘bright’ light. A soft edged shadow will indicate ‘medium’ light, a fuzzy shadow is low light. If you don’t see much of a shadow, it is going to be very difficult to find a plant for that spot. You can always add larger lights or more lights, but for planning purposes remember that a plant placed high in the terrarium is going to provide shade to plants below it.

Third, just how much variety to you really need? Some people are happy with just a few plant types or even just one rambling specimen that covers ground rapidly. Some people want dozens of different plants. Themes are popular, such as all bromeliads or all orchids. It is up to you. If you are just starting, a good mix for a dart frog terrarium can be found with our basic terrarium package. We suggest a few small to medium sized bromeliads (bromeliads hold water and provide hiding spots for frogs), some vining plants that can drape down your background, a couple of ferns, and some assorted tropical plants.

Be aware that highly toxic pesticides are often used in large scale foliage plant production. When you purchase plants, purchase them from a reputable supplier that uses animal safe techniques. If you do buy plants you aren’t sure of, consider growing them outside of your frog tanks for a few weeks or a month. This is plenty of time for pesticide levels to decrease to safe levels. Some people worry about fertilizer as well. It is virtually impossible to grow plants without at least some added fertilizer (plants need food to grow!). A little fertilizer will not hurt, but a good practice is to soak new plants in clean water for a few hours and rinse off extra soil or potting mix.

Plant selection:

For purposes of this discussion, I’ll assume we are building a terrarium to house dart frogs. That means high humidity and even moisture and temperature. There are many plants that will do well in this environment. Here are some sure winners:

1. Pothos. This is an impossible plant to kill, it will grow from even the smallest cutting and rapidly fill a tank. It is a good choice for tree frogs. If you want to grow a wide variety of plants, you may wish to avoid pothos, as it grows so rapidly it can easily crowd out a terrarium. Be prepared to prune it aggressively. There are several different color varieties of pothos to choose from, including green, gold, and variegated forms. Will grow at almost any light level.

2. Wandering Jew (tradescantia) – there are dozens of easily available varieties and probably hundreds of total varieties. This is also a very easy plant, and can be very aggressive. Some varieties include ‘Red’, ‘Burgundy’ (which has red underneath and green on top), and ‘Bolivian’ with its small leaves and rampant growth habit. You can easily find varieties in many different colors. Medium to low light. Be prepared to trim wandering jews frequently.

3. Peperomia species. There are countless species in this genus, and most will be great in a terrarium. They range from tiny leaves (‘Little Red Tree’) to large leaves (Pep. glabella), compact forms or vining. A very versatile genus, you could easily fill a terrarium with just different forms of peperomia. These usually grow in low light, but you will get more compact growth with medium light.

4. Pilea species. Like peperomia, hundreds of different species and varieties to choose from. They are easy growers and easy to propagate by cuttings. Small leaf vining forms include ‘Red Stem Tears’, ‘Baby Tears’, and ‘Tiny Tears’. ‘Creeping Charlie’ is a larger leaf vining form, which can easily fill a tank. Choose ‘Moon Valley’ (green) or ‘Friendship’ (purple) if you want a short bush. If your plant gets too out of control, simply clip it back to size.

5. Bromeliads. In the wild, many species of bromeliads form ‘ponds’ high up in the tree canopy. Frogs can use these water sources to rear tadpoles, and other animals and insects use them as well. With these ponds high in the trees, many animals never come down to the ground! The most common genus of bromeliad used in terraria is Neoregelia. They flower, but the flowers are usually held well within the ‘cup’, you might never see them. Bromeliads are true epiphytes (air plants) and will grow just fine stuck into the background or on a stick. They are very adaptable, and you can also plant them in soil or moss at the base of your tank. Try to place them such that they are not sitting in water, and they will do well. Be sure to select varieties of Neoregelia that stay compact. I particularly like ‘Fireball’, ‘Zoe’, or ‘Donger’, all of which are inexpensive and widely available, although any small growing neoregelia will do. For a little extra interest, try another genus of bromeliad like Billbergia with its deep, tubular water holding cups. I avoid most tillandsias, if they have a powdery silver coating on the leaves they will not do well. If your bromeliads lose their bright colors, they are not receiving enough light. They grow OK in medium light, but the best color and form is found when you give them very bright light.

6. Orchids. Consider an orchid or two in your next terrarium. It is a special touch. As a rule, most orchids are epiphytes that do not like to have soggy wet roots. Mount them on the background or plant them in a place where they won’t stay constantly wet. Some orchids to consider are jewel orchids, like Ludisia discolor or Macodes petola, which have beautiful foliage and do well in fairly low light. Restrepias have boring leaves but can bloom almost non-stop in a terrarium, the flowers look like a cross between a boat and a bug. Many masdevallias are good to grow in terrariums. Small bulbophyllums are excellent terrarium plants. These are just a few suggestions. There are more than 25,000 species of orchids! A quick online search will give you some valuable information about species that you are unsure of. Avoid plants that get too large, have tall flower spikes, or require special conditions to bloom. An example of a plant to avoid is Catasetum. They require a long dry rest, which is not possible in most terrariums. If you aren’t sure, ask the grower.

It is impossible to list all of the plants that will do well in a tropical terrarium. Don’t hesitate to try species that you are unsure of.

An Overview of the Strata of Vivarium Substrates

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

The modern living vivarium can seem like a complicated endeavor to outsiders – the most puzzling part being what is traditionally not the focus: the lower strata. A variety of materials are used as substrate in order to provide a climate that promotes both the health of the plants and frogs. The use of such things as drainage layers and leaf litter may seem much more involved than they actually are – this blog post will provide a basic overview of the different substrate strata, explaining both how they are used, and why. We will start at the bottom, and halt before discussing plants and hardscape, which will be the topic of next week’s blog.

Hydroton

Hydroton is a brand of LECA, or Light Expanded Clay Aggregate. It has been kiln fired to increase durability. Hydroton is a very lightweight option for creating a false bottom, which serves to create a void for excess water to go (so it does not saturate the soil layer). It also wicks water slowly back into the substrate, allowing for a more humid environment. Additionally, Hydroton provides a large amount of surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow. These bacteria will work to metabolize wastes from the system, resulting in a cleaner environment.

Substrate Barrier

Simply put, the substrate barrier included in the kit is placed between the Hydroton and substrate layers in the vivarium to prevent the substrate from pushing down into the Hydroton. This keeps the substrate drier, improving growing conditions in the vivarium, as well as extending the life of the substrate. The substrate barrier can be cut or folded to fit in your specific enclosure.

Atlanta Botanical Garden (ABG) Mix

ABG mix is a premium substrate for tropical vivariums. A precise blend of tree fern fiber, charcoal, sphagnum peat, long fiber sphagnum, and fir bark, this substrate is capable of lasting several years when used properly. Originally perfected by the Atlanta Botanical Gardens of Atlanta, Georgia, this substrate will support a sizable population of microfauna while allowing plants to thrive. It is a good idea to wet the substrate before placing it in the vivarium.

Long Fiber Sphagnum Moss

Long Fiber Sphagnum moss lasts a long time in the vivarium, and has natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. It is placed between the substrate and leaf litter layers in a vivarium to prevent the substrate from adhering to the frogs, and to increase the suitable environment for microfauna. The Long Fiber Sphagnum moss comes in an compressed brick, and will need to be expanded in water previous to use.

Leaf Litter

Leaf litter is an integral part of a naturalistic vivaria. It slowly breaks down, providing both organic food for the microfauna and plants in the tank. Leaf litter also provides hiding places and visual barriers for the larger inhabitants of the vivarium. It is the final layer in the vivarium. Leaf litter may consist of Live Oak, Sea Grape, Magnolia, or a combination of the three, or any other non-toxic leaf that is chemical-free. Typically, southern or tropical varieties of leaves are used, as these tend to be thicker, and take longer to break down in the vivaria.

The Strata of Vivarium Substrates

The above mentioned substrates are simply layered in the vivarium at different depths, beginning with about 2” of hydroton, then the substrate barrier, then 2-3” of ABG mix, followed by an inch of long fiber sphagnum moss, and topped with a hearty layer of leaf litter. The illustration below provides a visual example of this concept.

The different strata of substrates in a naturalistic vivarium.

Water Flow in the Vivarium

Water is added to the vivarium typically via fogging or misting, or a combination of the two. It settles on the plants, hardscape, and in the leaf litter, before traveling through the soil, and finally settling in the false bottom, or hydroton. Hydroton slowly wicks water back into the ABG mix, keeping it moist, but not saturated. This provides a humid, damp substrate that many plants, frogs, and microfauna thrive in. Keeping about 1” of standing water in the bottom of the vivarium will help maintain humidity – just make sure that the water never directly touches the substrate barrier or ABG mix, as this will quickly result in a saturated, sopping wet mess that is unhealthy both for plants and animals. Anerobic bacteria can quickly take hold in these conditions, and threaten the well-being of the inhabitants, as well as producing unpleasant smells. If this ever happens, all of the substrate layers above the substrate barrier will need to be replaced immediately. For this reason, excess water must be removed from the vivarium – I create a small pond in the front corner of each vivarium, and remove excess water from that via a suction hose.

Water flow in a vivarium.

Conclusion

Vivariums can seem a complicated endeavor at first glance, but the steps to build a well-functioning environment, and the concepts behind it, are not nearly as mysterious as they first may seem. With a little bit of research and planning, and initial investment in the proper supplies, anyone is capable of creating their own little slice of jungle.

Next week, we will discuss the basic groups of vivarium plants, and how to utilize them in the vivarium.

Written by Zach Brinks

Photos by DanSzewczyk

This how-to guide will walk you through the steps of making an easy to construct, durable, light weight, and convincing fake rock background for your terrarium or vivarium. The resulting display will provide years of enjoyment for both you and your pets. All of the materials are easily attainable at your local home improvement and craft stores.

Shopping List:

• pink insulation foam
• drylok masonry sealant or comparable brand
• concrete dye
• nylon brush
• sanding sponge, various grades
• serrated knife
• 1” pcv spacers
• egg crate
• hot glue gun and hot glue
• masking tape
• acrylic paint
• sand
• tin snips
• disposable gloves

Step 1

Empty out and clean the terrarium, making sure all interior surfaces are clean and dry. Then, lay out the 1” pvc spacers in a fashion that they will adequately support the egg crate false bottom.

Step 2

Cut the egg crate so that it will cover the entire bottom. A pair of tin snips works very well for this.

Step 3

Place the egg crate on top of the pvc spacers, checking to make sure it fits snugly. Trim if needed. After you are sure it fits securely, go ahead and attack the egg crate to the pvc spacers with hot glue. Your false bottom is now finished.

Step 4

Place pink insulation foam on the back and sides of the enclosure, above the false bottom. Secure in place with hot glue. Make sure that the doors of the enclosure will still be able to open and close properly – this is especially important if the doors swing open/shut, as in Exo Terra or ZooMed terrariums.

Step 5

You are now ready to start shaping rocks. I prefer 2” insulation foam for this. Using a serrated knife, roughly carve out your rocks. Over-exaggerate any cracks, crevices, etc. you wish to be apparent in the finished rocks – subsequent sanding and painting will remove finer details if you are not careful.

Step 6

Sand the rock heavily with a course sanding sponge. Loose sandpaper works well, too. This will allow the fake rocks to appear rounded and weathered with age. This step will produce plenty of pink dust from the foam – you may wish to wear a painter’s mask, and vacuum up the dust as you go to avoid making a larger mess.

Step 7

Go over the rock with a finer sanding sponge. This allows you to smooth out any rough corners, as well as give the surface of the rock some texture. Also, make sure to sand the back part of the rock (that will attach to the background) flat, to facilitate gluing it to the background.

Step 8

Continue to make more fake rocks using the above steps. You may choose to glue them into place as you go, or do so all at the end. Pay attention to how the rock background is assembled – staggering or offsetting similarly shaped rocks can result in a much more natural appearance.

Step 9

After all of the rocks are glued in place, cover all of the remaining surfaces with masking tape. This will prevent the drylok sealant from adhering to the glass or plastic trim. If it does get around the masking tape, any stray paint can be removed with a razor blade.

Step 10

Move the enclosure to a well-ventilated area. Make sure you protect the surface you are working on with newspaper or cardboard – this will prevent paint from getting everywhere. Lay the enclosure on it’s back, pull on a pair of disposable gloves, and get ready to paint.

Step 11

Open the can of drylok, and pour a couple cups of it into a plastic container. Add some concrete dye, and mix thoroughly, remembering that the paint will dry lighter than the color it is when it’s wet.

Step 12

Now you’re ready to paint. Using a brush with nylon bristles, lightly apply the dyed drylok. A brush with longer bristles will make it easier to get into the cracks of the rocks. Let excess drylok run into the cracks – this will dry and serve to help hold the background together. Most likely, you will not cover everything in one coat. This is okay – drylok dries very quickly, and you will be able to do a coat every 2-3 hours.

Step 13

As the drylok dries, the exposed pink foam that was not painted will stand out. Waiting 2-3 hours between coats, cover the background several times, until there is no longer any pink visible. Make sure to apply at least 3 coats for durability, and ensure the final coat covers everything.

Step 14

Before the final coat of paint dries, throw sand on the wet paint to give the rock added texture. If a worn, smooth texture is desired, skip this step. Alternatively, the sand can be mixing into a final coat of paint. Allow everything to dry for at least a day.

Step 15

After 24 hours, the rock background can be painted with acrylic for added depth and color. Initially, a light wash of black acrylic paint diluted in water can give depth to the background, especially if it is allowed to settle into the cracks on and between the rocks. Earth tones, such as browns, reds, and greens can be used to give the rock a worn, weathered appearance, and can be used to mimic mosses and the like. After the paint has dried, remove the masking tape.

Step 16

After the background has dried for several days, cover the egg crate false bottom with weed block, and introduce soil, any wood, and plants to the enclosure. Spray everything down thoroughly, and allow the plants to grow in for a couple weeks. When the environment is stable and meets the needs of the desired inhabitants, introduce them into the terrarium and enjoy.

There are a lot of different kinds of lights used in the Poison Dart Frog Hobby. All have their pros and cons. AJC talked abut the different types in his podcast here: http://frogroom-podcast.blogspot.com/2006/08/vivarium-lighting.html

AJC summarized his podcast on Frognet by saying:

Supplies:

1. Ultrasonic Humidifier. These are the cool mist humidifiers. Other humidifiers heat up water to create mist which will increase the heat in the vivarium or could burn your frogs. Click here for the cheapest Ultrasonic Humidifiers

2. PVC reducer. Needs to be large enough to fill the hole in the humidifier. It should reduce to 1/2 inch. I use a 2 in to 1/2 inch reducer.

3. Plastic tubing. With a 1/2 inch connectors you would use 5/8 tubing.

4. PVC fitting. This will be the access point on the vivarium. With 5/8 tubing you use a 1/2 inch fitting.

5. Timer. Used to set up a misting cycle.

Procedure

Troubleshooting

Supplies:

1. Two pieces of glass or acrylic

2. 100% silicon for glass or Weld-on #16 for acrylic

3. Hinge

4. Latch

5. Pull

Procedure

Task	Tips	Pictures
Measure the inside rim of the tank.	You want the measurement as close as possible to avoid gaps. Measure to the nearest 1/4 inch
Buy 2 sheets of 1/4 inch thick glass from your local glass shop. One sheet will be for the bottom of the door (I use 6″ for the bottom piece)	Shop around for glass. The price of glass can vary greatly from shop to shop.
Place the tank in its desired final position and silicon where the black rim meets the tank at the bottom of the tank.
Place the tank into it normal horizontal position, silicon the smaller piece of glass into the rim of the tank	Use plenty of silicon to make sure there are no leaks.
Then place the other sheet of glass into the frame.
Silicon the hinge, latch, and pull in their desire locations.	A 10 gallon is only 10″ wide, so use a 6″ hinge for a 10 gallon tank. I have had as big as a 20″ X 21″ door on a 12″ hinge.
Let the silicon dry for at least 48 hours.

Troubleshooting

There are a few considerations that need to be thought through before construction begins. The first consideration is how big you want the enclosure to be. The rule of thumb is 1 frog per 5 gallons. While all froglets can be kept in groups, some species will fight if there is another frog of the same sex in the enclosure. Larger terrariums support more microfauna, provide more space and exercise for the frogs, and are much easier to work with.

Tank

The first item you need to get is the tank. Garage sales and EBAY are great places to look for larger tanks. Once you have the tank, you need to build a lid for the tank. If you are going to be making the tank a vertical (tipping the tank on it’s side and making the tank opening the front of the tank) check out the How to make a vertical tank page.

Driftwood

The right driftwood makes the tank. Before I even picture the tank I’m going to build, I get the wood.

Cypress Driftwood – Smooth and holds up extremely well in very humid environments. This type of wood will even hold up as part of a water fall. It is also very light so it is easier to incorporate into the background.

Grape Wood – This type of wood has a lot of grooves like Kampas. This type of wood will be home to mold and fungus in your tank (don’t be surprised if you get mushrooms on this type of wood). The molds/fungus are harmless to frogs.

Terrarium Backgrounds

There are tons of options for Terrarium Backgrounds. Although you don’t NEED a background, it adds usable space to the terrarium, allows for more cover, and looks better than a tank without a background. The options for a terrarium background are:

Tree Fern Plaques – These plaques are 10″ X 10″ X 1″. They are light weight and the woven tree fern twigs provide a great environment for epiphytes to grow their roots.

Handi-Foam – Handi-foam is like Great Stuff except that it is 100 times better. It is black so it blends in better, it cures in less time, and we know it is safe for frogs. Spray the foam on the background, use a rubber glove to mold it like you want it, press in driftwood, and then cover it in coir and lightly press it in. Let it sit for 24 hours and you are all set!

Coco Fiber Square – These coco fiber squares are 12″ X 12″ X 1″, covered in latex, and come in brown or red. They are cheap, light, and long lasting (due to the latex coating). The fibers create a great place for plant roots to grow.

Drainage Layer

You will need drainage to keep your plants from drowning. Drainage is a necessary requirement for all Poison Dart Frog Terrariums. There are many options to accomplish this. All of these methods could be considered a “false bottom”.

Egg crate and PVC fittings – This is the oldest method around. Cut a piece of egg crate (the light diffusing stuff sold at hardware stores) to fit in the bottom of the tank. I have found that pruning sheers work for this. Then lift the egg crate off the bottom of the tank using PVC fittings.

Hydroton False Bottom – Poor enough balls in your tank to give you a 1″-3″ drainage layer. To figure out how much hydroton you need, use this formula:

Inches deep / height of the tank (in inches) = hydroton ratio

hydroton ratio X number of gallons = Gallons of hydroton needed

Gallons of hydroton needed X 4 = Liters of hydroton needed

To hide the sight of the false bottom, you can use black silicon and paint the bottom few inches of the tank.

Substrate

There are tons of options for a substrate. They are:

ABG Mix – The ABG mix was developed at the Atlanta Botanical Garden and is the Lexus of terrarium substrates. It is long lasting, holds moisture, and drains well. An all-around great choice.

Coir and Orchid bark – This is the simple and cheap method. Mix equal parts.

Sphagnum moss – This type of substrate holds a lot of moisture and inhibits the growth of molds. On occasion, the dried the moss will come back to life. Most of the time, however, it just gets covered in algae and appears to be alive.

Terrarium Plants

Some froggers almost love the plants more than the frogs. You can go simple or you can hand-pick expensive plants. The plants become your filtration for the frog waste that will develop in the ecosystem. Live plants are a must for Dart Frog Terrariums. Josh’s Frogs offers tons of plants that do well in Dart Frog Terrariums. All our plants are selected to grow in terrariums.

Terrarium Lighting

Picking the right lighting for your terrarium can mean the difference between lousy looking plants and vibrant, colorful, and healthy plants in your terrarium. Your lighting options are many. Here is a quick rundown.

T-12 – These are your standard fluorescent lighting fixtures. These lights will provide enough light for most easy plants, but will not allow your bromeliads to color up and your other plants to bloom. It works, but isn’t a good choice for a display tank.

T-8 – These fluorescent bulbs have a 80 lumens per watt. They are more efficient and produce more light than T-12s. A good investment if you are doing a rack of tanks as it not only produces more light to help your plants, but it costs less to run.

T-5 – These are the best terrarium lights available. They are bright, create less heat than the CFs, and put out 90 lumens per watt. Their small size produces tons of light with little energy use. These lights are efficient enough to be used in racks and bright enough to be the top choice for display terrariums.

Once you choose the Lights you would like, your next choice is picking the right frogs!