by Zach Brinks

Introduction

The genus Phyllobates contains some of the most deadly vertebrates on earth, most notably Phyllobates terribilis, aka the Terrible Poison Arrow frog. Fortunately for us, all dart frogs raised in captivity are harmless, as they loose their ability to produce toxins when reared on a captive diet. Epipedobates are another genus of dart frogs that are not very well represented in captivity, with the most common species being E. anthonyi. This blog post will go over the 3 most common species of Phyllobates, as well as E. anthonyi. All of these frogs are easy to keep, relatively easy to breed, and are great group frogs.

Phyllobates terribilis

In the wild, Phyllobates terribilis is the most toxic vertebrate on the planet – one adult frog contains enough toxins to kill over 100 people! In captivity, this frog is completely harmless, like all poison arrow frogs. These frogs are found near the Pacific coast of Colombia.

Phyllobates terribilis ‘Mint’ – a large, bold frog.

In captivity, P. terribilis is a large, bold frog. They can consume much larger prey items than most other dart frogs – adults are capable of eating a ½ inch cricket! They make excellent captives, as long as they are kept below 75F. There are 3 primary ‘morphs’ available in the US trade: mint, yellow, and orange. Their care is identical, and size varies slightly, with the mint form being the largest, and the yellow form being the smallest.

Phyllobates terribilis is available in 3 color forms – this is the ‘Mint’ variety.

Phyllobates terribilis can take from 2-3 years to mature, even though frogs breeding at a younger age is not unheard of. Typically, clutches are very large for dart frogs, averaging from 15-25 eggs, with clutches numbering in the 30s not unheard of. These frogs have a loud, trilling call.

Phyllobates bicolor

The second deadliest vertebrate on earth is the wild Phyllobates bicolor, the second of the ‘deadly three’ dart frogs used by Colombian indians to poison darts. These frogs inhabit the jungles of Colombia, and resemble miniature P. terribilis, being about the size of a Dendrobates leucomelas or D. auratus.

Phyllobates bicolor ‘Green Leg’.

Like other Phyllobates, bicolors can consume larger prey than most other dart frogs. They have a ravenous appetite, and can be quite entertaining to watch. Bicolor are every bit as bold as P. terribilis, and generally are more widely available. There are several forms of bicolor in the hobby, with most being imported from Europe. The two most popular forms are the ‘green legged’ and ‘gold’ varieties. The ‘gold’ bicolor were actually imported originally as P. terribilis, until DNA testing proved otherwise.

Phyllobates bicolor ‘Gold’ was originally thought to be a form of P. terribilis.

Phyllobates bicolor matures a bit quicker than P. terribilis, with breeding possible as early as 10-12 months. Males will emit a loud, trilling call as young as 8 months. Egg clutches are not quite as large as P. terribilis, and typically consist of 10-20 eggs – still large by Dendrobatid standards.

Phyllobates vittatus

Phyllobates vittatus, a very under appreciated frog indeed.

Phyllobates vittatus, also known as the Golfo-Dulcean Poison frog, hails from Costa Rica. Unlike the other members of the genus, P. vittatus is known to be a fairly shy animal – with my group at home, they are more often heard (once again, a loud trilling call)that seen. Due to this, and their ability to reproduce like rabbits (clutches of 10-20 eggs every couple weeks year round is not unheard of), Phyllobates vittatus has suffered from boom and bust popularity cycles in the wild. At times in the past, vittatus were so common breeders had trouble giving the frog away. At other times, it was very difficult to locate specimens. Unfortunately, this is a common issue with many of the more prolific species of dart frogs in the hobby, and has resulted in species disappearing from the pet trade altogether.

Phyllobates vittatus can easily lay 10-20 eggs every couple weeks.

Like other Phyllobates, vittatus prefers temperatures that are slightly lower than average for dart frogs – temperatures higher than 75F can stress your frogs. To increase your chances of seeing the Golfo-Dulcean Poison Dart Frog in a vivarium, plenty of cover, both in the form of hardscape and plants, and leaf litter should be provided. In the wild, P. vittatus is commonly found near streams and small pools – providing high humidity and a water source will go a long way towards encouraging the frogs to spend more time in the open.

Epipedobates anthonyi

Female Epipedobates anthonyi ‘Santa Isabel’.

The Phantasmal Poison Dart Frog is one of the most under appreciated frogs in the US hobby. E. anthonyi starts out life as a dull, brown frog – it takes a year or more before the frog shows it’s true colors. When mature, anthonyi will be a bright reddish brown frog with stripes, which can range from yellow to blue to green, depending on locale. There are several locales represented in the hobby, with the most common being ‘Santa Isabel’, which most likely represents several populations. I have three different bloodlines of Epipedobates anthonyi ‘Santa Isabel’ in my collection, and the adults in all three groups look distinctly different from the others.

Epipedobates anthonyi makes a striking contrast in a well planted vivarium.

These are fairly small frogs, with adults being about 1 – 1.25 inches long, making them ideal for smaller vivaria in the 10-20g range. A group of 4 animals will do well in a vivarium as small as a 20H. These frogs can be flighty when young, but generally grow into fairly bold, visible animals. A group of E. anthonyi is a sight to behold in a well planted vivarium with a water feature. Anthonyi are commonly found in association to streams, ponds, pools, or even irrigation ditches in their natural habitat – they are not picky about what kind of water feature they are provided, but certainly will utilize one, both in their everyday behaviors and breeding.

Epipedobates anthonyi ‘Santa Isabel’ male calling.

Male anthonyi will emit a loug, trilling call that is very similar to that of Phyllobates, but higher pitched. They also call much more regularly, and don’t seem to mind calling out challenges to other species, such as Dendrobates leucomelas. E. anthonyi can lay up to 25 eggs per clutch, even though clutches of 10-15 eggs is more common. If left to their own devices, a male anthonyi will transport all of the tadpoles produced from a clutch to a water source at one time – when I first witnessed this, it appeared a large, withering, black mass was hopping across the vivarium.

Conclusion

Phyllobates and Epipedobates are two genus of poison dart frogs that could hardly be considered mainstream (if any dart frogs can be considered mainstream). Fortunately for the average hobbyist, these species are fairly easy to reproduce in captivity, are hardy, and (for the most part) bold. If you’re looking for something a little different than your typical dart frog, look no further than Phyllobates or Epipedobates.

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

When it comes to keeping poison dart frogs at home, it’s hard to be over-prepared. Some serious time should be spent researching your future acquisitions, and some serious thought should be given, as these colorful frogs can easily live over 10 years. Below are some great articles we’ve put together that future frog owners should find especially helpful.

 First things First

 Owning a magnificent naturalistic vivarium has never been easier.

As a great starting point, the Josh’s Frogs blog post ‘So You Think You Want Dart Frogs?‘ presents some of the challenges and planning that must go in to dart frog ownership. This article is a great first read for those just starting to ponder jumping into the hobby.

Frogs

After you have researched some of the basics surrounding dart frog care, the next logical step is to select what species of poison dart frogs you want to work with. On www.JoshsFrogs.com, we have 3 great articles about the more common dart frog species found in the US hobby. The first and most useful is entitled ‘Hopping Into The Hobby‘ and discusses the care of the three most popular (and easy to keep) species of dart frogs: Dendrobates tinctorius, Dendrobates leucomelas, and Dendrobates auratus. These species of dart frogs are particularly hardy, widely available as captive bred specimens, and easy to keep.

 Dendrobates leucomelas is a great frog to start out with.

The next two articles cover frogs typically left to those with a little frog experience under their belts, but novices can be successful with them with little additional effort. ‘Three Thumbs Up‘ explores Ranitomeya ventrimaculata, Ranitomeya lamasi, and Ranitomaya imitator - species of thumbnail dart frogs in the hobby. These small frogs seldom exceed 1” in length, and actually lay eggs to feed their tadpoles. ‘The Other Bates‘ discusses frogs of the genus Phyllobates and Epipedobates – frogs that are a little less common than the more well known Dendrobates, but just as fascinating.

Phyllobates terribilis is considered a frog of intermediate difficulty

based on it’s sensitivity to warmer temperatures.

Here at Josh’s Frogs, we provide the hobby a wide array of healthy, captive bred poison dart frogs, all bred by us, for you!

Vivariums

After you’ve decided what dart frog species you want to start out with, the next logical step is to build them a home. Typically, dart frogs are housed in vivariums – enclosures planted with live plants that replicate the jungle habitat of these colorful frogs. Many people utilize aquariums or other glass enclosures for vivarium construction. We prefer Exo Terra Glass Terrariums for their durable construction, ease of access via front doors, and a vent below the door to promote proper air circulation.

Exo Terra Glass Terrariums make great vivariums.

‘Vivariums: From the Ground Up‘ does a good job explaining the substrate levels of a vivarium, what to use, and why. We’ve created a kit providing all of the required substrates for a naturalistic vivarium, sold on www.JoshsFrogs.com as our Tankless Dart Frog Habitat Kits.

Familiarizing yourself with how a vivarium works, such as water movement

or purposes of different substrates, goes a long way towards creating a successful vivarium.

Next, you’ll have to light your vivarium. Dart frogs do not require any special lighting, but your plants will need a sufficient source of lighting in order to thrive. The Josh’s Frogs blog ‘Let There Be Light!‘ compares and contrasts various common methods of vivarium lighting, and allows you to make an educated decision on how to light your future vivarium, based on your own needs and circiumstances. Our website provides a wide array of vivarium lighting.

LED Bulbs are one of several lighting

options for the home vivarium.

After the lighting has been decided upon, it’s time to put some thought into planting your vivarium. The articles ‘Terrarium Plants 101‘ and ‘Growing Moss Like A Boss‘ cover the basic types of vivarium plants, and how to incorporate them into your project. Josh’s Frogs also provides Live Vivarium Plant Kits, tailored to specific sizes of vivaria.

Tropical vivarium plants create a lush jungle

atmosphere that both you and your frogs will enjoy.

Once your vivarium is up and running, both the temperature and humidity will have to be monitored to insure that conditions are ideal for dart frog care (generally 65-80F and 80-100% humidity). Temperature can be measured by a temp gun, digital thermometer, or analog thermometer, with either of the first two being preferable. Humidity is measured with a hygrometer – we offer both digital and analog hygrometers, but the digital ones are much more accurate. Alternately, a combination monitor, such as the Exo Terra Digital ThermoHygrometer can be used to measure both at once. The articles ‘Keeping It Cool‘ and ‘Heating your Vivarium‘ will instruct you on how to adjust the temperature of your vivarium until it’s just right.

Feeding

Fruit flies are a popular staple of a captive dart frog diet.

Now that your future frogs have a place to live, it’s time to figure out what they’ll eat, and how you can provide them with enough food to thrive. There are two common species of fruit flies – Drosophila melanogaster and Drosophila hydei. The Josh’s Frogs blog post ‘Which Fruit Fly is Right For Me?‘ compares and contrasts the two, allowing you to make an educated decision as to which species is more appropriate for you. The article ‘Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly Overview‘ shows how we go about making fruit fly cultures at Josh’s Frogs – last year, we shipped out over 30,000 32oz cultures! We offer fruit fly cultures on www.JoshsFrogs.com, as well as culture kits that allow you to make your own at home!

Springtails are easy to culture and make a great addition to any vivarium.

Other sources of food include microfauna, such as springtails and isopods. The articles ‘Microfauna: Part I‘ and ‘Microfauna: Part II‘ cover the culturing of each of these microfoods, respectively. Often, both critters are added directly to the substrate in the vivarium, and work to keep the enclosure clean, while providing the dart frogs with additional food.

Josh’s Frogs Complete Dart Frog Care Kits

If all of this is a little overwhelming, Josh’s Frogs has taken the guess work out of keeping poison dart frogs, and now offers Josh’s Frogs Complete Dart Frog Care Kits, which include everything that’s been mentioned in this article – an enclosure, substrate, plants, lights, and a fruit fly culturing kit!

Conclusion

As you can see, there is a lot involved in keeping poison dart frogs at home. That’s not saying keeping them is hard – dart frogs are by far one of the most simple and low maintainence pets I’ve ever had the privilege of working with. After the proper research, keeping a large naturalistic vivarium containing these jewels of the rainforest is a very straight forward endeavor.

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

During the spring and summer, warmer temperatures can greatly increase the ambient temperatures in a home. Especially in the southern states, this can severely impact the daytime high temperatures that your vivarium experiences. This blog post will address techniques to keep your vivarium cool in the hottest months. They include placing your vivarium in a cooler place, ice, lighting, and the use of a/c units. Regardless of the method you choose to lower temperatures in your vivarium, I strongly recommend using a reliable digital thermometer to monitor temperatures.

Placing the vivarium in a cooler area
The simplest way to reduce the temperatures in your vivarium is to move it to a cooler area. In the north, basements make an ideal location for a vivarium, as they will natural stay in the low to mid 60s F.

When available, a basement is the perfect place for a vivarium in warmer months.

Keeping your vivarium away from windows or direct sunlight will insure that it stays cooler. Placing it against a northern or southern facing wall will result in lower temperatures, as well. Additionally, placing the vivarium directly on the floor or a lower shelf can reduce it’s temperature by a few degrees.

Ice

Ice provides an easy, economical way to reduce the temperature of your vivarium. Ice packs can be readily purchased at most general merchandise stores, or from businesses that sell shipping supplies. Alternatively, plastic water bottles can be filled half full and utilized. Simply place the ice pack or water bottle in the freezer for several hours until frozen, then wrap it in cloth (a hand towel or sock works very well). The ice can then be placed on top of the vivarium, or inside for maximum effect.

Lighting

Generally speaking, lighting adds heat to the vivarium, and will raise it’s internal temperature. In some climates, it is helpful to run your vivarium’s lighting on a reverse schedule. Having the lights off during the day and on during the night will result in a lower high temperature for the vivarium. When doing this, make sure that the vivarium is placed in a room that is completely dark during the day. Light from a window or lamp, a tv, or the like can keep the frogs up during the day.

LED lighting is energy efficient, produces more light, and runs cooler than traditional lighting.

Alternatively, lighting can be selected that does not put out as much heat as traditional lighting, such as T5s or compact florescents. LED lighting is a great option when high temperatures are an issue. Light Emitting Diode bulbs run much cooler, are much more energy efficient, and produce more light than traditional lighting.

Another solution is to increase the distance from the light to the top of the vivarium. This will decrease the amount of light that reaches your vivarium, but can cool it down several degrees. Having a fan blow across the light can decrease the temperature of the vivarium, as well.

Air Conditioning

Sometimes, cooling an entire house just to keep your vivarium cool is not possible (or economical). Using a portable or window air conditioner to only cool the room that your vivarium is located can be a more affordable, environmentally friendly solution. Many makes and models are available at retail stores and on the internet – I recommend doing a few days of research into a particular model before making a purchase.

Spend several days researching a particular model of air conditioning unit.

For those portable A/C units that have exhaust ducts, 2 duct units are much more effective and efficient. Keep in mind that most a/c units work via evaporative cooling, and will reduce the humidity in the air (and possibly drying out your vivarium, which would need additional misting). Most models have a drain pan to collect water which must be emptied regularly.

Conclusion

Spring weather is finally upon us, and with it higher temperatures. For many of us, this may mean higher, and potentially dangerous, temperatures in their vivariums. Use the tips above to keep your vivarium, and animals, cool in the hottest of weather.

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

During the winter, it is not uncommon for average household temperatures to be several degrees lower than normal. This cooler environment may lead to a lower than average temperature inside the vivarium, to the point that steps need to be taken to heat it. Although dart frogs (any many other reptile or amphibian inhabitants) can tolerate temperatures into the mid 50s, they benefit from warmer, more stable conditions. This blog post will go over 5 of the most common ways to heat a vivarium: heat pads, heater cable, submersible water heaters, radiant heat lamps, and room/space heaters. Regardless of the method you choose to go about heating a vivarium, I strongly recommend utilizing a reliable digital thermometer to monitor temperatures.

Heat Pads

Heat pads can be useful when heating the vivarium.

Heat pads are typically applied on the bottom or side of the vivarium. When used on the bottom, they are more effective raising the overall temperature of the vivarium, as they will heat any water standing in the false bottom/drainage layer. When applied to the side, heat pads can be an effective way of creating a horizontal heat gradient. There are stories that heat pads can crack the bottom of a tank – when used with a thermostat, as they are designed for, this should not be an issue.

Heating pads can be attached from the bottom or the side.

Heater Cable

Heater cable can be buried in the substrate, proving a source of even heating in the vivarium.

Similar to a heat pad, heater cable is basically a long, insulated cable that contains a heating element inside. The cable is generally waterproof, and can be buried in substrate or placed in hollow limbs (such as bamboo). By placing the heater cable in a certain location, a hot spot can be produced. If the heater cable is more evenly distributed over the entire vivarium (ie buried in the substrate), it can be used to evenly raise the ambient temperature of the vivarium. As before, this product was designed to be used with a thermostat, and it is strongly recommended.

Submersible Water Heaters

Also called aquarium water heaters, submersible water heaters have a long history of being used in vivariums to raise the ambient temperature. Water heaters are placed in the water in the false bottom or drainage layer of a vivarium. When placing a submersible water heater, insure that it will be easy to remove if the water heater malfunctions or needs to be adjusted. Also, make sure that the submersible water heater will always be underwater – glass water heaters can shatter if exposed to air. Many of the newer submersible water heaters are made of plastic or metal that eliminate the threat of your water heater shattering and releasing dangerous chemicals and metals into the delicate ecosystem of your vivarium.

Many of the newer submersible water heaters are plastic, eliminating the dangers of a shattered glass heater.

Many submersible water heaters are preset to 78F – this can work in some situations, but acquiring a submersible water heater that can be tuned to the desired temperature is preferable.

Radiant Heat Lamps

Generally used to provide a basking site for reptiles, radiant heat lamps can be used successfully in vivaria, as long as advanced planning is given. Many amphibians, dart frogs included, tend to utilize basking spots if they are provided, even when temperatures are not below average to begin with!

Radiant basking bulbs, such as this halogen bulb, are a great way to provide

basking spots in the vivarium for those species that require them.

There are several different basking lights available on the market – in my experience, halogen bulbs are the most efficient. They tend to be lower wattage than traditional filament basking bulbs, and are very good at creating small basking areas at a distance. Generally, the bulb should be shining into the vivarium through screen – glass may shatter under the halogen bulb as it is heated. Due to the need for at least a partial screen top when utilizing a basking bulb and humidity loss due to evaporation, you must figure out how to aid in increasing/maintaining the overall humidity of the enclosure. Automated misting/fogging will greatly increase your ability to maintain humidity when using basking/radiant heat bulbs.

Room/Space Heaters

A room full of vivariums containing animals that enjoy heat, such as this

Dendrobates pumilio ‘Bastimentos’, would benefit from a room or space heater.

For those of us who have given in to the addiction and now maintain several vivariums, or a room dedicated to them, it can be much more efficient to heat an entire room instead of individual vivaria. From infrared heaters to space heaters to oil-filled radiators, there are several different modes of heating your room. Choosing the one that is right for you will depend on your individual situation and your budget. For my frog room at home, I chose a unit that functions both as a heater and AC, and vents outside.

Conclusion

One of the responsibilities that comes with animal ownership is providing your captive with an environment that meets it’s needs. Steps must be taken to insure that your reptile or amphibian pet is kept within a temperature range that the animal is comfortable.

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

There are more lighting options for the home vivarium on the market today than ever before. From revamped old lighting systems to completely new technology, the vast selection is sure to confuse anyone that’s not well versed in the matter. This blog will guide you through the more common types of lighting, and provide their pros and cons.

Incandescent Lighting / Halogen Bulbs

As in most facets of our lives, incandescent lighting is dead. A very inefficient form of lighting, incandescent is best relegated to applications where heat is needed, such as basking areas for reptiles. Some frogs will bask, so an incandescent bulb (or their more efficient cousin, the halogen bulb) may be appropriate in those circumstances, but as a general rule, incandescent or halogen lighting is not appropriate for the home vivaria.

Generally, halogen and Incandescent lighting is not appropriate for the home vivarium.

          Pros: cheap, widely available

          Cons: low light output, high heat output, short lifespan

T8 and T12 Fluorescent Lighting

T8 and T12 fluorescent bulbs have been a staple of aquarium lighting for years. They are widely available (both at a pet store and home improvement store), relatively cheap, and produce relatively low amounts of heat. T8s are slightly more efficient then T12s, and should be pursued. Stick to bulbs that are rated at 6500K – these will produce a clean, white light.

          Pros: relatively cheap, easily available in 6500K spectrum

          Cons: low light output

T5 and T5 High Output Fluorescent Lighting

T5HO bulbs do a great job of lighting a vivarium, but the lighting will not extend to the bottom of a tall vivarium.

T5 lighting is an upgrade to T8 bulbs. T5s are narrower, but they produce considerably more light and heat, and consume more energy. I use T5 bulbs in my frog room, which can take advantage of the extra byproduct heat (it’s a basement in Michigan). Popular in the hydroponics industry, there are many different brands available – most of which are appropriate for use with the home vivarium.

T5 fixtures are often sold with bulbs – the included reflectors greatly improve the efficiency of the bulb.

          Pros: produce a lot of light, more energy efficient than other lights

          Cons: produce heat (can be vented or used to raise tank temperatures), can be a little expensive

Power Compact Lighting (PCL)

Power Compact lighting was popular for a while, but now is largely outdated. Power compacts produce a lot of light, but also a lot of heat, tend to be fairly expensive, use a lot of energy, and are fairly fragile. I have used power compacts in the past to light a vivarium, and they were by far the most expensive lighting system to operate.

PCL bulbs can produce plenty of light, but can produce much too heat for use with dart frogs.

          Pros: produce a lot of light

          Cons: produce heat, expensive to replace bulbs, use a lot of energy, fragile

Compact Fluorescent Lighting (CFL)

With the rise of CFL bulbs as replacements to incandescent bulbs in homes, it comes as no surprise that CFLS are experiencing a rise in popularity in the vivarium industry. They can be picked up anywhere light bulbs can be purchased, and are relatively inexpensive. It is easy to find bulbs rated at 6500K – they are typically marketed as “Daylight” or something similar. The 26w versions produce more light than the 13w bulbs, and are more appropriate for use with a vivarium in most situations.

CFL bulbs are widely available.

          Pros: inexpensive, widely available, energy efficient

          Cons: fragile, do not produce as much light per watt as some other forms of lighting

Light Emitting Diode Lighting (LEDs)

LEDS are becoming more and more available.

LEDs are the new kids on the block when it comes to vivarium lighting. This technology is still growing, but there are LED lighting solutions on the market that are appropriate for vivarium use. LEDs use remarkably little energy and produce very little heat for their light output. On top of that, the lifespan of an LED is typically 10 years or more! They have been utilized in the hydroponics industry longer than the dart frog hobby has taken advantage of them, and there are several brands available. They can sometimes be a little difficult to find, but are well worth the effort. LED lighting also tends to remain more intense at a distance, allowing the lower reaches of a vivarium to be lit.

LEDs allow light to penetrate deep in the vivarium. This moss is about 18” away from the bulb.

          Pros: energy efficient, very long life, very bright, correct spectrum, light penetrates

          Cons: initially costly, can be a bit difficult to find

Conclusion

With all of the lighting options available today, it comes as no surprise that making the right choice for lighting your vivarium can be confusing. Hopefully, you’ve found this guide helpful in making the right choice when it comes to lighting a little slice of jungle in your home.

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Frogs of the genus Ranitomeya, or Thumbnail Dart Frogs, have always had a special place in the dart frog hobby. Their small size, quick movements, sometimes elusive behavior, and fascinating breeding habits quickly make them the favorites of a collection. This blog article will provide an overview of the three most common species in the trade.

Ranitomeya sp.dart frogs are also known as ‘Thumbnail Dart Frogs’, due to their small size. Pictured is Ranitomeya reticulata.

Ranitomeya imitator

Ranitomeya imitator (also known as Dendrobates imitator) is a small, variable frog from northern Peru. Their common name is the Mimic Poison Dart frog, reflecting the frog’s tendency to mimic other species’ color and pattern. Various forms occur in the US hobby, including R. imitator ‘nominat/standard’, R. imitator ‘Intermedius’, R. imitator ‘Varadero’, and R. imitator ‘Tarapoto’, with each morph representing a specific population. Like all thumbnail dart frogs, these frogs are approximately ¾ of an inch. They have a moderately loud, buzzing call.

Ranitomeya imitator ‘Yurimaguensis’

Like the rest of the Ranitomeya species discussed here, Imitators are non-obligate egg feeders, and show interesting parental behavior. Imitators will lay 1-5 white eggs (typically 3) at a time, after going through the typical Dendrobatid courtship rituals. Eggs are often laid on a flat leaf, or inside a film canister. The male will guard them, routinely wetting the eggs to avoid desication. After the eggs hatch, tadpoles are scooped up the frog’s back, and transported to individual bodies of water (typically film canisters or bromeliads in vivaria). Ever so often, the female will deposit infertilized eggs into the water to feed the tadpoles, until they emerge from the water as minature versions of the adults. Being Non-obligate egg feeders, the tadpoles can be raised artificially, if you choose to remove eggs or tads to raise.

All species of thumbnail dart frogs will transport tadpoles. Pictured is Ranitomeya imitator ‘Nominat/Standard’.

Ranitomeya imitator ‘Varadero’

Ranitomeya imitator is fairly bold most of the time, especially when breeding. In smaller vivaria (such as a 12x12x18 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium), they are best housed in pairs. In larger vivaria (such as an 18x18x24 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium), they can be kept in groups – keep a close eye on the frogs, as they can stress each other. Ample leaf litter should be provided to the inhabitants, which will foster healthy microfauna growth – being smaller frogs, imitators love springtails and Drosophila melanogaster fruit flies. These small frogs appreciate temperatures in the low to mid 70s F, with a temperature drop of up to 10F at night.

Ranitomya imitator ‘Intermedius’ enjoying a fruit fly.

Ranitomeya ventrimaculata

Ranitomeya ventrimaculata (also known as Dendrobates ventrimaculatus, and R. amazonica) is another common thumbnail frog in the US hobby. In the wild, they are found throughout Amazonia (French Guiana, Brazil, Ecuador, and Peru), and display a wide variety of colors (most retain the typical striped pattern). Common forms in the hobby include R. ventrimaculata ‘French Guiana’, R. ventrimaculata ‘amazonica’, and R. ventrimaculata ‘Iquitos’.

Ranitomeya ventrimaculata ‘Amazonicus’

Vents share the typical Ranitomeya breeding behaviors with R. imitator, with a few important differences. Ranitomeya ventrimaculata is a much more prolific breeder, with a single female sometimes laying 7-9 eggs at a time. These frogs are also great group breeders, with multiple males and females congregating and breeding together, sometimes resulting to globs of 15 or more eggs, which are typically laid underwater in bromeliads or film canisters. Vents can be very, very prolific breeders, even if left to their own devices. I once housed a pair in a 12x12x18 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium. After a year, I tore the vivarium apart, only to discover 9 adult frogs!

Ranitomeya ventrimaculata ‘French Guiana’

Housing and feeding is virtually identical to Ranitomeya imitator. Vents will appreciate lots of leaf litter to sort through, and the extra springtails it provides. Unlike Imitators, vents tend to be very shy frogs for the most part.

Ranitomeya lamasi

Ranitomeya lamasi (also known as Dendrobates lamasi, and probably several other names the way taxonomists have been working lately) is native to Peru, where it utilizes phytotelmata (plants that hold water), such as heliconias, bromeliads, and even bamboo. All lamasi tend to have a striped pattern and a solid colored square on their belly, but their base color can vary drastically depending on population (generally, black and yellow/orange/green). Size can vary as well, with the larger forms occurring at a higher elevation. Forms present in the US include Ranitomeya lamasi ‘Standard/Highland’, R. lamasi ‘orange/orange panguana’, R. lamasi ‘panguana’, and R. lamasi ‘green leg’.

Ranitomeya lamasi ‘Highland/Standard’ is a larger form of lamasi that occurs at higher elevations.

R. lamasi shares breeding habits with other members of it’s genus. These very secretive frogs lay 1-3 eggs at a time, which are then raised in the typical thumbnail fashion. In the vivarium, lamasi seem to prefer black film canisters, and sometimes even lay in the leaf litter. Some forms, such as the ‘Standard/Highland’ form, are very difficult to breed, and in serious danger of disappearing from the hobby.

Ranitomeya lamasi ‘Standard/Highland’ is much more difficult to breed than other

thumbnail dart frogs, making it very sought after.

Care of Ranitomeya lamasi is nearly identical to other thumbnail frogs, with a few exceptions. In my experience, lamasi seem to appreciate a little more floor space and plant cover than other thumbnails. Eggs seem to be slightly more sensitive than other thumbnails – it may be wise to let the parent frogs tend to the eggs and transport the tadpoles, then remove the tads to raise artificially.

Conclusion

Thumbnail dart frogs, so named for their diminutive size, will always attract attention for their diversity, breeding behaviors, and small stature. There is an ever growing segment of the hobby that focuses specifically on the frogs of the genus Ranitomeya, and rightly so – these frogs will quickly earn a special spot in any home collection.

by Zach Brinks

Introduction

Few images scream ‘jungle’ like a scene full of tropical plants. Undoubtedly, this includes large swaths of lush, green moss. Although moss, a bryophyte (non vascular plant), occurs in tropical climes, it’s not an integral part of the typical dart frog environment. Moss makes a nice accent, but it should never be the focus of a dart frog vivarium. There are four important factors to consider when incorporating moss into a naturalistic vivarium: lighting, water, substrate, and the inhabitants. 

A lush vivarium full of moss is possible, if a few key concepts are understood.

Lighting

Most of the literature will classify moss as needing low or moderate lighting. Keep in mind that this refers to moss outside, under the sun, and not moss grown indoors. It’s much brighter outside in the shade than it is in a typical vivarium. As a general rule, moss in the vivarium will appreciate all the light it can get. I have had success growing it under HOT5 bulbs, as well as LEDs. In the past, when I used T8s to light my vivarium, most moss would not grow. With upgraded lighting, it’s not difficult to have lush moss growth in most vivaria.

Note the compact, lush growth of this moss under bright LED lighting.

There are 2 primary ways to insure that your moss gets the lighting it needs – using brighter lighting, or reducing the distance between the moss and the light. Depending what your current light setup is, it may be possible just to get a new bulb, or add a reflector (which can greatly increase the light output on many bulbs). Additionally, placing the moss in the upper reaches of a vivarium can greatly increase the amount of light it gets. Utilizing shorter vivaria to begin with will also go quite a ways in increasing light exposure.

Light intensity is important to moss growth. Generally the brighter the light, the more compact the moss growth. Notice the three different growth habits of the same moss in this vivarium, a result from differing light intensity due to distance from the bulb.

Water

With moss, heavy mineral or chemical content in water spells doom. Generally, if the water is safe to use with darts frogs, it’ll be fine for moss. Spring, distilled, or reverse osmosis water is safe. Some mosses, especially those traditionally used in aquariums such as java or riccia (technically a liverwort), need wet, almost saturated conditions. Most other mosses, such as sheet moss, shag moss, or mood moss, actually prefer a bit of air movement, and a chance to air out between misting. If you’re not sure what the moss prefers, it’s a good idea to split the moss into several sections and try keeping it in different conditions in the vivarium.

Java moss, typically grown in an aquarium, requires more water than many other mosses.

Substrate

Some mosses will happily grow over almost any surface, while many mosses are are more particular of their growing substrate. As a general rule, if the moss does not appear to have ‘roots’ (moss does not have true roots), the moss will happily grow on almost anything, such as cork or wood. If the moss appears to have ‘roots’, and grows in a mat-like fashion, such as mood moss, it generally prefers a soil-like substrate, such as ABG mix or sphagnum. Once again, if you’re not sure what your moss likes, split it up and spread it around.

Some mosses are perfectly fine growing directly on wood, and do not require special substrates.

Vivarium Inhabitants

Before purchasing moss, consider what animals will be living in the vivarium. Many animals, such as dart frogs, do not truly benefit from moss. Although it looks great, moss should not be the main ground cover in a vivarium. Most species of dart frogs kept in captivity appreciate a good layer of leaf litter and all the benefits it entails (hiding places, visual barriers, increased microfauna levels), and moss does nothing for them. Moss should be used as an accent – something that looks nice, but should not ‘take away’ from the needs of the frogs.

Remember, although moss looks great, it really does not benefit the frogs much. A good layer of leaf litter is far more practical.

Common Vivarium Mosses

Java Moss.

Riccia, actually a liverwort.

Josh’s Frogs Sheet Moss – the best vivarium moss we sell!

Josh’s Frogs Tree/Shag Moss.

Josh’s Frogs Mood/Frog Moss.

Conclusion

Mosses will always have a special place in the vivarium. Few other plants can complete with it’s lush growth habit and intense green coloration. Even though moss is widely available, keep in mind that not all mosses thrive in any condition. Considerations must be made to truly be able to grow moss like a boss.

Introduction

Fruit Flies (Drosophila sp.) are one of the most popular feeder insects for those animals that require smaller prey items, such as poison dart frogs. Unfortunately, these typically easy to culture insects often encounter difficulties with colder weather. This blog entry will address the most common issues, and what to do about them.

Shipping

The reduced temperatures winter brings makes shipping live animals even more difficult than it already is, and shipping fruit flies are no exception. At Josh’s Frogs, we ship using styrofoam lined boxes and with heat packs when the temperature drops, but even so, the interior temperature of a package can vary widely in transit, depending on how it is handled by the carrier, and the length of it’s travels.

During winter, Josh’s Frogs ships using styrofoam lined boxes with heat packs.

In a styrofoam lined box, a fruit fly culture will maintain interior temperatures approximately 10 degrees above that of it’s surroundings. Adding a heat pack will raise the temperatures another 10 degrees. Even at 20 degrees above ambient temperature, the cultures will experience a wide range of temperatures in transit, due to the change in the daytime highs and overnight lows the part of the country the package passes through experiences. This constant temperature shift certainly does not have a positive effect on the fruit fly cultures – at best, it has a neutral effect, and often negatively impacts the culture. It’s very easy for cold weather to slow down or stop the natural progression of a fruit fly culture during shipping. Often, it delays peak production by several days – that is why producing cultures sometimes take a few days to catch up after shipping in winter. If the fruit fly culture is exposed to very cold temperatures, flies, pupae, and/or larvae may perish. Once situated in a proper environment the culture will rebound, but sometimes chilly weather may cause the culture to fail, and/or allow grain mites to exponentially reproduce in the culture, leading to it’s demise.

Temperature

Average house temperature during the winter is substantially less across the United States. Lower temperatures will not necessarily result in less fruit flies produced per culture, but can greatly increase the length of time it takes a culture to produce flies. Accompanying the delay in fly production is an increased threat of grain mites – these pests are capable of reproducing in a much wider range of conditions than fruit flies are. Grain mites are present in all fruit fly cultures, and in most situations are not harmful, but if given the proper conditions, they are capable of overrunning a fruit fly culture, and eventually crashing it. Typically, if the temperature is increased to a level more favorable for fruit flies, they will resume production, and the mites themselves will be out competed.

There are several ways to insure that fruit flies receive the required temperatures during the winter (ideally as close to 78F as possible). The easiest method is to keep the fruit flies near a heat source, such as a water heater or lights used to light the animal enclosures. When trying this, remember that heat rises, and often cultures located nearer the ceiling of a room will be several degrees warmer than ones located near the floor. Alternatively, creating an incubator of sorts for the cultures can keep them warm. Anything from reptile egg incubators to a plastic container with a heat source, such as a basking bulb or heat pad, can be effective.

Humidity

The cold winter weather generally leads to the furnace running most of the time. This not only increases the household temperature, but also substantially decreases the relative humidity. Ideally, fruit fly cultures are maintained at 60-80% humidity, and lower humidity can result in the culture media drying out, allowing a ‘skin’ to form over the surface of the media (just like pudding can form a ‘skin’ if left in the fridge). This ‘skin’ will suffocate the larvae, or cause them to climb up the sides of the culture in search of oxygen. Spraying the culture with a bit of water will correct this issue.

Under ideal humidity, fruit fly pupae should be concentrated around the mid level of a culture.

By looking at the placement of pupae on the side of a culture, you can infer if the culture is receiving the proper humidity or not. Under ideal conditions, the pupae will be spread evenly throughout the sides of the culture, with most of them located at mid level. If most of the pupae are located at the top of the culture, the humidity is too high. If the pupae seem concentrated lower in the culture, towards the media, the humidity is too low. Keeping cultures in plastic storage drawers, such as those made by Sterilite, is a quick and easy way to insure that proper humidity is maintained.

Conclusion

Winter poses many challenges to the proper production of fruit flies. Using the hints and tips outlined in this blog post, most problems can be solved quickly, and plenty of fruit flies can be produced for your herps.

Introduction

Since 2004, Josh’s Frogs has produced our own fruit fly media and cultures. Demand for both products continue to grow, and we thought we’d share what goes in to providing thousands of high quality fruit fly cultures to the pet trade.

Media

Let’s start by discussing Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly Media. We are the only company to offer specific medias for the two most popular species of fruit flies – Drosophila melanogaster and D. hydei. Both will do well on either media, but will truly thrive on their specific media. Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly media is enriched with vitamins, minerals, and other ingredients to insure the best nutrition possible. Methyl paraben, a food grade ingredient, is used to prevent mold growth. Our media is easy to use, inexpensive, and is known for it’s ability to produce thousands of flies. Demand continues to grow – in 2011, we sold over 11 tons of Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly media, all produced right here in Owosso, Michigan. By buying ingredients in quantities larger than the average consumer (we buy potato flake by the ton), we’re able to provide a top quality product cheaper than you’d be able to if you made it yourself!

We made and sold over 12 tons of fruit fly media last year!

Making the Fruit Fly Cultures

Every week, staff at Josh’s Frogs makes over 1000 fruit fly cultures. This may seem a daunting process, but it can easily be broken down into several basic steps.

Step 1: Bring water to a boil – we boil filtered water 16 gallons at a time using 4 large coffee urns.

Step 2: Place ½ cup of Josh’s Frogs Fruit Fly Media in a 32oz insect cup.

Step 3: Add 2/3 cup boiling water. We do not mix the water and media – the fruit fly larvae will do that for us!

Step 4: Add excelsior – this provides surface area for the flies to crawl and lay their eggs on. It also keeps the culture intact during shipping.

Step 5: Allow media to cool. We cover the cultures at this point to prevent contamination from flying flies.

Step 6: Add 50-100 fruit flies.

Step 7: Cover culture with a vented insect cup lid.

Caring for Cultures

After the cultures are made, they are incubated in a special ‘bug room’, which is maintained at 78F and a humidity of 70% – optimum conditions for fruit flies. We store the cultures in plastic storage drawers – each drawer holds a dozen cultures, making it easier to transport them around the facility, as well as maintaining the proper humidity in the culture. Paper towels, innoculated with mite spray, are placed in the bottom of each drawer. Between batches, all of the storage drawers are sterilized with bleach.

All of our cultures are incubated at 78F in our bug room.

Every storage drawer is sterilized between each batch of flies.

Conclusion

Josh’s Frogs is the leading producer of 32oz Fruit Fly cultures in the world – we shipped out over 30,000 cultures last year! We strive to provide the pet industry with quality cultures – hopefully, this blog post illustrates the challenges of being the industry leader, and shows how we meet and exceed those challenges.

Introduction

Fruit flies (Drosophila sp.) are a common feeder insect when animals that require small prey items are involved, such as dart frogs. Although several different species have made the rounds in the hobby, 2 have consistently been cultured over the years, and remain the most common and easy to work with.

Fruit flies are easy to culture, making them one of the most popular feeder insects for animals requiring small prey items.

Drosophila melanogaster

Drosophila melanogaster (also know as melanogaster, melanos, or mels) are probably the most commonly encountered species of fruit fly in culture, and measure about 1/16^th of an inch long, making them ideal as the staple food for a variety of dart frogs and other animals that prefer smaller prey items. Melanogaster fruit flies have been used to years in genetics experiments around the world, and as such, there are several different genetic mutations of them available. Perhaps the most useful to the average hobbyist is the ‘wingless’ form. These flies lack wings, and as such are unable to fly. Unlike the ‘flightless’ D. melanogaster, the wingless form cannot regain the ability to fly if it gets too warm (the ‘flightless’ deformation is linked to protein folding – if the flies reach a certain temperature, the proteins fold properly and the next generation will be able to fly). The ‘wingless’ trait is recessive – both parents have to carry the trait in order for the offspring to remain wingless. If a ‘wild type’ fly (one with wings) mates with a ‘wingless’ fly, the offspring will be able to fly.

Drosophila melanogaster are a smaller fruit fly, measuring about 1/16” long.

The life cycle of Drosophila melanogaster is very quick. Within 14 days of setting up a new culture, the next generation of flies is emerging. After that 14 day waiting period, new flies emerge every day. This quick generation time means that the culture will produce thousands of flies, fairly consistently, from day 14-28, when the culture is disposed of. Because of this, melanogaster fruit flies are generally preferred by those who are new to culturing fruit flies – melanogaster tend to be more forgiving and easier to culture consistently.

Melanogaster fruit fly cultures will produce thousands of flies over a 28 day period.

Drosophila hydei

Drosophila hydei (also known simply as hydei) are another commonly encountered fruit fly in the hobby. Hydei measure about 1/8”, and are quite a bit larger and ‘meatier’ than D. melanogaster – perfectly suited for dart frogs that prefer larger prey items, or other pets with similar needs. A ‘flightless’ form of hydei is most commonly available – this strain will not revert back to fliers at a higher temperature, unlike ‘flightless’ melanogaster. Like the ‘wingless’ form of melanogaster, this trait is recessive, requiring both parents to carry the trait in order for the offspring to be flightless. Every care should be taken to insure that flying Drosophila hydei do not get into the culture, as the resulting flying insects can quickly become a nuisance.

Drosophila hydei are a larger fruit fly, measuring about 1/8” long.

Compared to that of D. melanogaster, the life cycle of D. hydei is much longer. At average temperatures, it will take 21 days or more until the first new hydei being emerging in a culture. Hydei fruit fly cultures show a particular ‘boom and bust’ cycle – the culture will appear empty, only to suddenly be filled with flies overnight. Most cultures will have 2-3 booms, with 5-7 days between each one. With the large period of time between active booms, hydei cultures are much more likely to dry out than melanogaster, and as such are more prone to crashes and grain mite infestations.

Drosophila hydei fruit fly cultures are more prone to drying out and crashing, due to their ‘boom and bust’ life cycle.

Conclusion

Both species of fruit flies popular in culture are relatively easy to culture. Generally speaking, Drosophila melanogaster – the smaller fruit fly – is easier to culture for novices, and is perfectly suited for most species of dart frogs. Drosophila hydei – the larger fruit fly – will produce more ‘meat’ over the life of the culture, but is more suceptible to crashes.

Next week, we’ll take a look at what goes in to producing all of the fruit fly cultures at Josh’s Frogs.