<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	>

<channel>
	<title>Josh's Frogs How-To Guides</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog</link>
	<description>Information on the products, animals, and feeders we sell</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2010 02:41:47 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.3</generator>
	<language>en</language>
			<item>
		<title>Why aren&#8217;t my Poison Dart Frogs breeding?</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/12/why-arent-my-poison-dart-frogs-breeding/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/12/why-arent-my-poison-dart-frogs-breeding/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Dec 2009 21:44:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Poison Dart Frog Care]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=95</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#60;!&#8211; 		@page { margin: 0.79in } 		P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } 	&#8211;&#62;


They aren&#8217;t old enough.  Most 	thumbnails can breed as early as 6 months out of the water, but 	larger frogs most often will not start breeding until they are over 	a year old.  Tweaking variables to get them to breed sooner is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&lt;!&#8211; 		@page { margin: 0.79in } 		P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } 	&#8211;&gt;</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">They aren&#8217;t old enough.  Most 	thumbnails can breed as early as 6 months out of the water, but 	larger frogs most often will not start breeding until they are over 	a year old.  Tweaking variables to get them to breed sooner is at 	best futile and at worst unhealthy for the animals.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">They aren&#8217;t a pair.  Be very wary 	of people selling â€œsexed pairsâ€ of frogs that are younger than 	the ages in #1 above.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">You are bothering them.  Once a 	year we clean off the slime on the front of our tanks for our open 	house.  It takes most of our frogs about a month to start laying 	eggs again after this.  Frogs love privacy, so provide lots of 	hiding spots and consider covering most/all of the sides of the 	tank.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Your humidity levels are too low.  	At Josh&#8217;s Frogs our breeders are setup with zero ventilation. Dart 	frog eggs need very high humidity and the frogs will not lay when 	they know their eggs are just going to dry out.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">They aren&#8217;t healthy enough.  	Dusting your feeder insects with a calcium and multivitimin dust is 	important to prepare your frogs to breed.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Your breeding spots aren&#8217;t in the 	right condition.</p>
<ol type="a">
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Most frogs will turn down a dirty 		petri dish.  Make sure you use are cleaning/replacing your petri 		dishes regularly.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Film Canisters get dirty fast.  		We dump the water out and refill 2 times a week as it gets pretty 		nasty fast.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Different frogs require different 		breeding spots.  Some like petri dishes under cocohuts, some like 		empty film canisters, some prefer the sides of the glass, and 		others prefer film canisters full of water.</p>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/12/why-arent-my-poison-dart-frogs-breeding/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Blaptica dubia Roaches</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/10/blaptica-dubia-roaches/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/10/blaptica-dubia-roaches/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Oct 2009 21:03:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Feeder Insects]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[blaptica dubia]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[roaches]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=88</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Blaptica dubia roaches have recently become a common feeder insect for various animals, due to the ease of culture, cleanliness, fast reproductive rate, high protein to chitin content, nutritional value, and size range of Blaptica dubia. Blaptica dubia roach cultures do not have an odor when maintained properly. Blaptica dubia roaches cannot climb smooth surfaces [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="425" height="344" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/i3hSbaRhTIc&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1&amp;" /><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="344" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/i3hSbaRhTIc&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1&amp;" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Blaptica dubia roaches have recently become a common feeder insect for various animals, due to the ease of culture, cleanliness, fast reproductive rate, high protein to chitin content, nutritional value, and size range of Blaptica dubia. Blaptica dubia roach cultures do not have an odor when maintained properly. Blaptica dubia roaches cannot climb smooth surfaces or fly, making escapee Blaptica dubia roaches unlikely. Blaptica dubia roaches also do not make noise, a pleasant bonus when compared to the traditional feeder insect, the cricket.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><strong>N</strong><strong>atural history:</strong></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Blaptica dubia Roaches, also known at the Orange Spotted Roach or Guiana Spotted Roach, are native to Central and Northern South America. Blaptica dubia roaches are larger roaches, measuring from 1.5-2 inches. Blaptica dubia roaches are sexually dimorphic, with male Blaptica dubia roaches possessing complete wings, and female Blaptica dubia roaches possess wing buds.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Female:</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/dsc_0143-edit.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-91" title="Female Blaptica dubia Roach" src="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/dsc_0143-edit-300x300.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="300" /></a></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><strong>Habitat:</strong></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Here at Josh&#8217;s Frogs, we keep our Blaptica dubia roaches in large opaque Sterilite brand plastic tubs. Darker tubs allow Blaptica dubia roaches to remain active 24/7, resulting in faster growth and reproduction. Because Blaptica dubia roaches cannot climb smooth plastic, a top is not needed, and allows for proper ventilation. Glass aquariums work, just note that Blaptica dubia nymphs will climb silicone, so a tight-fitting screen top is a must when culturing Blaptica dubia in glass containers.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Heat is provided by a <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/ceramic-heat-emitters/exoterra-heat-wave-lamp-150-watt-p-1470.html" target="_blank">150w ceramic heat emitter</a> positioned above the culture. Another option to heat Blaptica dubia roaches would be a <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/heating-c-111_136.html" target="_blank">heating mat</a>. Keeping Blaptica dubia roaches warm is important, as the warmer Blaptica dubia roaches are kept, the faster Blaptica dubia roaches will reproduce.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">High humidity is also important, which we provide by providing a substrate of 2 inches of <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/terrarium-construction-supplies-c-87_33_141.html" target="_blank">coco bedding</a> that we routinely add water to. You do not want the Blaptica dubia culture to be soaking wet, but you do not want it to be dry. We find that Blaptica dubia roaches breed faster, smell less, and are just as easy to maintain by providing a substrate in the Blaptica dubia culture.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_115.html" target="_blank">Cardboard Egg Crate</a> provides places for Blaptica dubia roaches to hide and give birth. Blaptica dubia roaches will spend most of their time hiding in the egg crate. The egg crate can be positioned vertically or horizontally in Blaptica dubia roach cultures, but we find simply laying the egg crate horizontally works well. Excess debris can be cleared from the egg crate by gentle shaking. Blaptica dubia roaches tend to cling to the egg crate when it is picked up, and ca be removed by shaking. Larger Blaptica dubia roaches tend to fall off sooner than smaller Blaptica dubia roach nymphs, and can be sorted by size in this manner.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Blaptica dubia roach cultures may need to be cleaned every 6-8 months. At Josh&#8217;s Frogs, we recommend seeding the substrate of Blaptica dubia roach cultures with <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_26.html" target="_blank">springtails</a>, a small soil isopod that breaks down organics. This significantly reduces the chance that mold will grow in the Blaptica dubia roach culture, which can kill Blaptica dubia roaches. Most of the substrate should be changed in Blaptica dubia roach cultures every 6-8 months; when doing so, make sure to add some frass (roach waste) back into the cleaned culture. Frass in an important dietary component in Blaptica dubia roach nymphs, and is needed for a healthy culture. Fortunately, Blaptica dubia roach frass does not smell.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><strong>Feeding:</strong></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">At Josh&#8217;s Frogs, we feed our Blaptica dubia roaches a special diet that we formulate and make ourselves, Josh&#8217;s Frogs Roach Diet. Several years in the making, Josh&#8217;s Frogs Roach diet provides proper levels of protein and other nutrients essential to the health and growth of a Blaptica dubia roach culture. Josh&#8217;s Frogs Roach Diet also functions as a gut load for Blaptica dubia roaches, rendering them much more nutritious than Blaptica dubia roaches fed lower quality diets.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Blaptica dubia roaches also need to be provided with a moisture source. At Josh&#8217;s Frogs, we use <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_126.html" target="_blank">polymer water crystals</a> to provide water to our Blaptica dubia roaches. Polymer crystals are by far the easiest and most convenient way to provide moisture to your Blaptica dubia roaches. They are inexpensive, easily stored and made ready for use, and do not go bad, unlike fruits and vegetables.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Fresh fruits and vegetables can also be provided to Blaptica dubia roaches. The use of springtails (link) in a Blaptica dubia roach culture help to insure that vegetable matter does not mold over and threaten a culture.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><strong>Reproduction:</strong></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Blaptica dubia roaches will become sexually mature at around 4-6 months. Blaptica dubia roach females will give birth to 20-40 live nymphs once a month for the rest of their 1-2 year lifespan.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 0in;">One male Blaptica dubia roach can service multiple females, so adult male Blaptica dubia roaches can be fed out of a culture without significantly impacting the reproductive capacity of a Blaptica dubia roach culture.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/10/blaptica-dubia-roaches/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Mealworm Culturing Caresheet</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/09/mealworm-culturing-caresheet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/09/mealworm-culturing-caresheet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2009 15:19:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Feeder Insects]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=85</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Mealworms purchased in cups should be stored in the refrigerator          (a range of 42Â°-55Â° F). Mealworms  purchased in bulk require a          bit of prep work before they&#8217;re stored in the refrigerator. Bulk Mealworms  are shipped [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a title="Mealworms" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_131.html" target="_blank">Mealworms</a> purchased in cups should be stored in the refrigerator          (a range of 42Â°-55Â° F). </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a title="Mealworms" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_131.html" target="_blank">Mealworms</a> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> purchased in bulk require a          bit of prep work before they&#8217;re stored in the refrigerator. Bulk </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a title="Mealworms" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_131.html" target="_blank">Mealworms</a> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> are shipped in a box containing <a title="Egg Flats" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_115.html" target="_blank">egg crate</a>. The worms need to be transferred          into a plastic container (the quantity of worms determines the size of          your container). If your container has a lid, it will need several aeration          holes. Fill the container with about 1&#8243; of mealworm bedding, add          the worms, then layer another 1&#8243; of bedding on top. </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a title="Mealworms" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_131.html" target="_blank">Mealworms</a> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> can          be kept in the refrigerator for up to two weeks with very little maintenance.          After two weeks, the </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a title="Mealworms" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/feeder-insects-supplies-c-89_131.html" target="_blank">Mealworms</a> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> should be removed from the refrigerator,          and a small amount of Easy Water should be added to the top of the bedding.          Allow the mealworms to stay at room temperature for about 24 hours. This          will allow them enough time to &#8220;wake up&#8221; and become more active          so that they can consume food and water. The mealworm bedding is their          food source. After the 24 hours have passed, remove any remaining Easy          Water and place the worms back in the refrigerator. Repeat this process          on a two week schedule.</span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/09/mealworm-culturing-caresheet/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Frogs Josh&#8217;s Frogs is currently working with</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/06/frogs-joshs-frogs-is-currently-working-with/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/06/frogs-joshs-frogs-is-currently-working-with/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Jun 2009 22:18:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Josh's Frogs Information]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[poison dart frogs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=68</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Below is a list of the frogs that we are currently working with.  Those marked breeding have tadpoles in the water.  To see our availability of frogs, please see: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/category/164/frogs
&#60;!&#8211; 		@page { margin: 0.79in } 		TD P { margin-bottom: 0in } 		P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } 	&#8211;&#62;
 



Frog species we work with


Currently Breeding



Cryptophyllobates azureiventris



Dendrobates amazonicus

X



Dendrobates [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Below is a list of the frogs that we are currently working with.  Those marked breeding have tadpoles in the water.  To see our availability of frogs, please see: http://www.joshsfrogs.com/category/164/frogs</p>
<p>&lt;!&#8211; 		@page { margin: 0.79in } 		TD P { margin-bottom: 0in } 		P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } 	&#8211;&gt;</p>
<table border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" width="476" bordercolor="#000000"><col width="334"></col> <col width="124"></col></p>
<tbody>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">
<p align="CENTER">Frog species we work with</p>
</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER">Currently Breeding</p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Cryptophyllobates azureiventris</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates amazonicus</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;6-spot/Ancon Hill&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Blue and Black&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Camo&#8221;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Costa Rican Green &amp; Black&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Hawaiian&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Highland Bronze&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Nicaraguan&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Panama Green &amp; Black&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Panama Green and Bronze&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Super Blue&#8221;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates auratus &#8220;Turquoise and Bronze&#8221;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates azureus</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates fantasticus</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates imitator &#8220;nominant&#8221;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates imitator &#8220;Intermedius&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates imitator &#8216;tarapota&#8217; Mark Pepper Line</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates imitator &#8216;tarapota&#8217; Tor Linbo Line</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates imitator &#8216;Inicibo&#8217;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates lamasi &#8220;Standard&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates lamasi &#8220;Panguana&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates lamasi &#8216;green legged&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates lamasi &#8216;Orange&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates leucomelas</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates leucomelas &#8220;British Guyana/Banded&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates pumilio &#8216;Solarte&#8217;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Cobalt&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Inferalanis&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Patricia&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Powder Blue&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Nikita&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Citronellas&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Brazilian Yellow Head&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Green Sips&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Blue Sips&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER">
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Giant Orange&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER">
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Yellow Backs&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER">
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Bakhuis&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates tinctorius &#8216;Alanis&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates truncatus</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates ventrimaculatus &#8216;Blue Legged&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates ventrimaculatus &#8216;Grey Legged&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Dendrobates ventrimaculatus &#8220;Understory&#8221;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Mantella laevigata</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Mantella pulchra</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Mantella viridis</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Phyllobates vittatus</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Phyllobates aurotaenia &#8216;Narrow&#8217;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Phyllobates aurotaenia &#8216;Green&#8217;</td>
<td width="124"></td>
</tr>
<tr valign="TOP">
<td width="334">Phyllobates bicolor &#8216;Green Legged&#8217;</td>
<td width="124">
<p align="CENTER"><strong>X</strong></p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/06/frogs-joshs-frogs-is-currently-working-with/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Poison Dart Frog Tadpole Care</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/poison-dart-frog-tadpole-care/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/poison-dart-frog-tadpole-care/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 03:20:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Poison Dart Frog Care]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[poison dart frogs]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Tadpoles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=63</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[

As the tadpole grows in the egg, it will fill the egg and assume a C position. When the tadpole&#8217;s tail is straight again, you know it has hatched. It is now time to take the tadpole out of the petri dish. We use a turkey baster to get the tadpoles out. We then place [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2></h2>
<h2><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="425" height="350" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="src" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1FsiTFKBhko" /><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1FsiTFKBhko"></embed></object><span style="color: #000000;"><strong><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20012%20%28Small%29.jpg"><img src="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20012%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" alt="" width="269" height="222" align="right" /></a></strong></span></h2>
<p align="left"><span style="color: #000000;"><strong><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20011%20%28Small%29.jpg"><img src="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20011%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" alt="" width="305" height="218" align="left" /></a>As the tadpole grows in the egg, it will fill the egg and assume a C position. When the tadpole&#8217;s tail is straight again, you know it has hatched. It is now time to take the tadpole out of the petri dish. We use a turkey baster to get the tadpoles out. We then place the tadpoles individually in <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=88_23&amp;products_id=1140">tadpole cups</a>. We add 2&#8243;-3&#8243; of <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=88_59">Reverse Osmosis water</a>, a piece of <a title="Indian Almond Leaves" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/tadpole-care/indian-almond-leaves-5-pack-p-800.html" target="_blank">indian almond leaf</a> and a small piece of Java Moss. After a day or two, we fill the cup up entirely. If you do not have a Reverse Osmosis System, we recommend that you use some of the <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23">water treatment products</a>.</strong></span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>We feed my tadpoles <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=23">a variety of tadpole foods</a>. We feed once a week and NEVER do water changes.</strong></span></p>
<p align="left"><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Once the tadpole sprouts front legs, We pour out all of the water, get rid of the java moss, and add an inch or so of </strong><strong><a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=88_59">Reverse Osmosis water</a></strong><strong> back into the cup. We then place the cup between two of the wires in the wire shelf. This creates a sloped area where the frogs can climb out. When we see a frog completely out of the water, we move the froglet into a froglet tub.</strong></span></p>
<h2><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>Froglets</strong></span></h2>
<p align="left"><span style="color: #000000;"><strong><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20014%20%28Small%29.jpg"><img src="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20014%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" alt="" width="176" height="117" align="left" /></a>Froglets get put into tubs in pairs. The tubs are a <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=36">190 oz container</a> with <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=sphagnum+moss">sphagnum moss</a>, some <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=55">terrarium plants</a>, and a <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=38">film cannister</a>. We seed all tubs with <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=26">springtails</a> so the froglets can have a variety of food. We feed all froglets every other day.</strong></span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/poison-dart-frog-tadpole-care/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Caring for Poison Dart Frog Eggs</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/caring-for-poison-dart-frog-eggs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/caring-for-poison-dart-frog-eggs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 03:16:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Poison Dart Frog Care]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Poison Dart Frog Eggs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=60</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sooner or later you will get eggs. Usually you will get a couple of clutches of eggs that will go bad and mold over. This is normal. Bad eggs will swell up and get cloudy. In developing eggs you can actually see the tadpole develop in the egg. When I get eggs, I take a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p align="left"><span style="color: #000000;"><strong><img src="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/froggies%20009%20%28Small%29.jpg" border="0" alt="" width="162" height="118" align="left" />Sooner or later you will get eggs. Usually you will get a couple of clutches of eggs that will go bad and mold over. This is normal. Bad eggs will swell up and get cloudy. In developing eggs you can actually see the tadpole develop in the egg. When I get eggs, I take a paper towel, wet it, and place it in the bottom of a 24 oz Ziploc container. I then take the <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=28">Petri dish</a> and place it on the paper towel (I do not put the top of the Petri dish on Petri dish). I then add enough RO water to just touch eggs. If the eggs are laid on a <a href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=38">film canister</a>, leaf, or on the side of the tank, I scrap out the eggs and put them in a Petri dish and add water so it just touches the eggs. Finally, I put the Ziploc lid on and mark the top with species of frog egg.<br />
</strong></span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/caring-for-poison-dart-frog-eggs/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Mealworm Caresheet</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/mealworm-caresheet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/mealworm-caresheet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 May 2009 19:01:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Feeder Insects]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Mealworms]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=53</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Mealworms purchased in cups should be stored in the refrigerator          (a range of 42Â°-55Â° F). Mealworms purchased in bulk require a          bit of prep work before they&#8217;re stored in the refrigerator. Bulk Mealworms are shipped in a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_131/feeder-insects-supplies-mealworms">Mealworms</a> purchased in cups should be stored in the refrigerator          (a range of 42Â°-55Â° F). </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_131/feeder-insects-supplies-mealworms">Mealworms</a></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> purchased in bulk require a          bit of prep work before they&#8217;re stored in the refrigerator. Bulk </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_131/feeder-insects-supplies-mealworms">Mealworms</a></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> are shipped in a box containing <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_115/feeder-insects-supplies-egg-flats">egg crate</a>. The worms need to be transferred          into a plastic container (the quantity of worms determines the size of          your container). If your container has a lid, it will need several aeration          holes. Fill the container with about 1&#8243; of mealworm bedding, add          the worms, then layer another 1&#8243; of bedding on top. </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_131/feeder-insects-supplies-mealworms">Mealworms</a></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> can          be kept in the refrigerator for up to two weeks with very little maintenance.          After two weeks, the </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_131/feeder-insects-supplies-mealworms">Mealworms</a></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> should be removed from the refrigerator,          and a small amount of <a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_126/feeder-insects-supplies-water-crystals">water crystals</a> should be added to the top of the bedding.          Allow the </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_131/feeder-insects-supplies-mealworms">Mealworms</a></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> to stay at room temperature for about 24 hours. This          will allow them enough time to &#8220;wake up&#8221; and become more active          so that they can consume food and water. The mealworm bedding is their          food source. After the 24 hours have passed, remove any remaining </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_126/feeder-insects-supplies-water-crystals">water crystals</a> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">and place the worms back in the refrigerator. Repeat this process          on a two week schedule.</span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/mealworm-caresheet/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Terrarium Lighting Options Compared</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/terrarium-lighting-options-compared/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/terrarium-lighting-options-compared/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 May 2009 18:53:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Terrarium Construction]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[T5]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[T8]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Terrarium Lighting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=48</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There are a lot of different kinds of lights used in the Poison Dart Frog Hobby. All have their pros and cons. AJC talked abut the different types in his podcast here: http://frogroom-podcast.blogspot.com/2006/08/vivarium-lighting.html
AJC summarized his podcast on Frognet by saying:



Quote:


In summary:
Comparison of lumen/watt   (very rough):
T5   90
T8   80:   [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There are a lot of different kinds of lights used in the Poison Dart Frog Hobby. All have their pros and cons. AJC talked abut the different types in his podcast here: <a href="http://frogroom-podcast.blogspot.com/2006/08/vivarium-lighting.html" target="_blank">http://frogroom-podcast.blogspot.com/2006/08/vivarium-lighting.html</a></p>
<p>AJC summarized his podcast on Frognet by saying:</p>
<table border="0" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="3" width="90%" align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><span class="genmed"><strong>Quote:</strong></span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="quote">In summary:</p>
<p>Comparison of lumen/watt   (very rough):<br />
T5   90<br />
T8   80:    20% of the input energy converted into light<br />
Metal halide   60<br />
CF   50<br />
Mercury vapour   40<br />
LED   25:     Modern lamps over 100 but these are very expensive<br />
Halogen   20<br />
Incandescent   15, depending on power (7 for 15W, 20 for 300W):<br />
Typically 5% of the input energy converted into light</p>
<p>So T5&#8217;s are brighter than T8&#8217;s but they are only slightly more<br />
efficient, mostly because they pack more power into the same tube<br />
length.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/terrarium-lighting-options-compared/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What you need to have before buying Poison Dart Frogs</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/what-you-need-to-have-before-buying-poison-dart-frogs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/what-you-need-to-have-before-buying-poison-dart-frogs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 May 2009 18:44:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Poison Dart Frog Care]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[poison dart frogs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=41</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here is a list of items you should have on hand before you get your frogs.
 A terrarium setup for poison dart frogs.  Not sure what that entails?  Then check out our Naturalistic Terrarium Construction Guide.
 A Temperature and Humidity Probe.  You will want to make sure that your terrarium stays between [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here is a list of items you should have on hand before you get your frogs.</p>
<p><img src="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/forum/images/smiles/icon_arrow.gif" border="0" alt="Arrow" /> A terrarium setup for poison dart frogs.  Not sure what that entails?  Then check out our <a class="postlink" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/?p=13" target="_blank">Naturalistic Terrarium Construction Guide</a>.<br />
<img src="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/forum/images/smiles/icon_arrow.gif" border="0" alt="Arrow" /> <a class="postlink" href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/87_45/terrarium-construction-temphumdity-probe" target="_blank">A Temperature and Humidity Probe</a>.  You will want to make sure that your terrarium stays between 70-85 degrees and the humidity stays above 80%.<br />
<img src="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/forum/images/smiles/icon_arrow.gif" border="0" alt="Arrow" /> A container to quarantine the frogs.  We use and recommend the <a class="postlink" href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/88_36/breeding-quarantinetemporary-enclosures" target="_blank">190 oz Quarantine Containers</a>.  See our What you need to do when you get your frogs caresheet for more details (coming soon).<br />
<img src="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/forum/images/smiles/icon_arrow.gif" border="0" alt="Arrow" /> <a class="postlink" href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_21/feeder-insects-supplies-fruit-flies-culturing-supplies" target="_blank">Fruit Flies</a>.  There are three ways to do this:<br />
1. Order <a class="postlink" href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_21_52/fruit-flies-culturing-supplies-fruit-cultures" target="_blank">fruit fly cultures</a> when you need them.<br />
2. Order a <a class="postlink" href="http://joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_21_51/fruit-flies-culturing-supplies-culture-kits-with-flies" target="_blank">Fruit Fly Culturing Kit</a> and culture your own fruit flies.<br />
3. Subscribe to our <a class="postlink" href="http://joshsfrogs.com/tinc?key=Zn2wSIoc&amp;formname=FlySubscriptions" target="_blank">Fruit Fly Subscription Plan</a>. With this plan, you set a schedule for the delivery of your fruit fly cultures, pay once, and then the fruit flies are delivered to you on that schedule.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/05/what-you-need-to-have-before-buying-poison-dart-frogs/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Waxworm Care Sheet</title>
		<link>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/01/waxworm-care-sheet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/01/waxworm-care-sheet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jan 2009 22:55:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshsfrogs</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Feeder Insects]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Waxworms]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://joshsfrogs.wordpress.com/?p=65</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ideal Temperature, Storage and Maintenance
Waxworms can be stored for a couple of weeks          if kept at 55Â° F. This is the ideal temperature for waxworms; however,          most refrigerators are a little colder than this. Often, the butter [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><strong>Ideal Temperature, Storage and Maintenance</strong><br />
<span style="font-size:small;"><a title="Waxworms" href="http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/category_info/89_108/feeder-insects-supplies-waxworms" target="_blank">Waxworms</a> can be stored for a couple of weeks          if kept at 55Â° F. This is the ideal temperature for waxworms; however,          most refrigerators are a little colder than this. Often, the butter tray          on the door of your refrigerator is the best place to find this ideal          temperature. It&#8217;s better to keep waxworms at room temp with low humidity          than it is to store them in a refrigerator that is colder than 40Â°          F in its warmest area. Cupped waxworms should be stored in their cup.          They have entered a stage in their life cycle where they no longer consume          food. They are living off the fat supplies in their bodies. This means          you&#8217;ll see them growing smaller the longer you keep them. Always remove          any dead (black) wax worms from the container. It&#8217;s extremely important          that they be stored in low humidity.</span></span></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.joshsfrogs.com/catalog/blog/2009/01/waxworm-care-sheet/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
